Hmmm well, the distributor body looked like decent aluminum. The whole AC delco distributor kit looked quite expensive.

I definitely need a new cap and gear. When you're buying a gear, is it only talking about the top part that you see under the cap, or the whole set up within the body itself? I'm wondering if maybe I could just get away with that...

The vibration from misfires greatly decreased when I cleaned off the conducting heads in the distributor. When I took it apart and saw how it worked, it made sense to me why there's hesitation/acceleration when I hit the gas (because of the play within the gear). It's all drivable for sure, but I will have to do some replacement in the near future.

 

The top part, under the cap, with the little spring button in the middle and the electrical contact that spins around is the "rotor".

The gear is at the bottom, at the other end of the shaft, inside the engine, turned by a matching gear on the camshaft or oil pump (which is turned by the camshaft).

You can tell the gear is worn if there is play in the rotor when you try to move it (gently). The gears wear out, even on the good, metal bodied dizzies. Often the stock dizzies break the plastic bits around the cap screws before the gear has a chance to wear out.

 

Ok, so you're saying the gear is part of the body itself. The rotor definitely has play, so I should really be replacing the whole set up.

I'm just kinda confused though. You're saying I should buy a non-AC delco distributor frame (aluminum), but then put in AC-delco cap and rotor? Are all distributor parts by different manufacturers compatible like this?

 

i run the skip white dizzy in my blazer. i kept the same cap and rotor (was included with it) runs just fine, but i am running delco wires and plugs. when i notice a drop in performance i will swap to the delco cap and rotor.. just couldnt justify the money when the skip white came with a brand new one.

 

I looked at the distributors on the Skip White website and they look way better than anything else available. Thing is I'm in British Columbia, and while website says they'll ship to Canada, it only gives the USA as the only country selection for registering an account. Is it possible to buy stuff from there without an account?

 

I would just call them and order on the phone if I were you.

The gear is not part of the distributor body, it fits on the bottom of the central shaft and meshes with the gear on the camshaft. Since bottom of distributor drives the oil pump which is much harder to turn than the distributor itself, this is why the distributor gear wears.

Does your Blue Driver scanner monitor cam sensor retard? Not many inexpensive scanners do. Car Gauge Pro for Android does. You will want to check cam sensor retard and set it to 0° ± 2.0°, and especially check it when installing a new distributor. Having this set properly keeps the distributor from cross firing internally, which may be your problem now. It's a common problem with the 2nd gen Blazers.

 

Racer X, in post #10 you asked what kind of motor mounts to use besides rubber. Polyurethane.

 

So guys, I was looking up how to change the distributor and the procedures (for whenever I get a new distributor).

My first question is how can I use my scan tool to check the cam retard variance? It's supposed to be between 0-2*, right? My scan tool has Mode 6 capability so just wondering what specifically I should look for. Also, should I look for it at idle or while driving?

Second question: 4wd has always been iffy and I avoid using it almost always. I always get a "Service 4wd light" minutes after I turn my key (probably the automatic 4wd switch malfunctioning), but I remember a mechanic telling me the transfer case had a very minor transmission leak before. I'm wondering if this has anything to do AT ALL with the timing chain?

Third question: the other day I was tightening up the passenger-side sway link bushings and noticed a hose just hanging out into the wheel well, not connected to anything on that end. It was maybe a half-inch hose... I'm not really sure what that's for but it looked odd. I'm at work but I can take a pic of it later.

 

I can't answer that, but I'll be watching here for answers because I'll be at the same point later today or tomorrow.
No, the engine timing chain has nothing to do with the transfer case or transmission.

Leaky seals on the transfer case can cause issues, especially if you don't keep the thing topped up. I believe there's also a drive chain in the transfer case if you have the electronic one with "4WD Low" as an available setting.
There's supposed to be one loose hose down there. The overflow hose from the coolant reservoir exits down there. On my 1996 Bravada, it's tucked behind the frame "pocket" for the front upper control arm mount/bushing.

Apologies in advance to Vovin for sidetracking/hijacking his thread, but since I have someone's attention on this, is there a recommended brand or source for Polyurethane motor mounts? Or do I just walk in to the local "off road performance" shop, put my hands in the air and say, "I need Polyurethane motor mounts for my Blazer" and hope they let me leave with at least part of my life savings. They definitely won't know what a Bravada is there, but Blazer parts will work.

I put some cheap (Anchor brand?) mounts in last month. No problems yet. I think I paid about $10 for both motor mounts, and maybe $8 or so for the transmission/transfer case mount. I expect they will fail, probably fairly soon, but I had to replace them and find replacements for several missing bolts on the mount plates because it sounded like the engine was going to fall out of the thing completely if I didn't do something.

 

The PID to monitor for cam sensor retard is called various things by different softwares. If not cam sensor retard then should be something like CMP retard or even CMPRET. Few of the cheaper scanners or softwares will do it. I know of only one cheap software that does it, but that should not discourage you from looking on the one you have. The one I personally know will do it is Car Gauge Pro for Android at $8.95. Does require bluetooth OBD2 adapter - I recommend BAFX one from Amazon at $25. If you use Car Gauge Pro use the cam sensor retard PID with the double asterick. Good luck.