I'm not exactly sure. It's got the regular torsion lift and 2 inch body lift, I believe a guide on this forum said it could take 31s, maybe 32s. I don't want to mess up the speedometer or get significantly worse gas mileage so I don't quite know what I should put on it. What would you recommend?

 

Wow, I dont know how I missed that post asking about the shocks, but good call on swapping them out, as I would of suggested swapping them out. I'm not sure on what kind or wear over extended shocks can produce, but dont expect it to be good lol.

looking good with the body lift! What brand did you go with? Hearing different comment on the rear bumper brackets and if they work...

 

Haha your all over the place on the forum it's fine! I went with the PA body lift and it did not come with rear bumper brackets. (It also took at least a month or two to deliver). I had to drill a hole in the existing ones. The bottom hole became the new top hole and the new hole I made below it became the new bottom hole. It was pretty simple, I ended up using a Christmas tree bit after drilling a pilot hole. I didn't have to extend my fuel neck I just loosened it and it slid down when I started to lift it up. For the body mounts I ended up changing them because the old ones fell apart when I grabbed them. Unfortunately the umbrella bottom retainer piece had rusted out completely on pretty much every mount so I ended buying 12 new ones from the LMC website. I purchased the sketchy Ebay prothane body mounts for a lot cheaper than the energy brand and they're actually really well made. I haven't been able to move it so I'm not sure about the shift linkages. The stock airbox ended up barely fitting, I had to attach it piece by piece starting at the MAF and air box and force it onto the throttle body. The front bumper brackets would NOT fit if the lower valence was attached without the valence being shoved into the tow hooks and mounts. You might be able to squeeze it on but I didn't like the way it looked. I removed the lower valence and left the plate holder. The oil filter relocation brackets worked alright and I did not have to relocate any grounds. My battery ground wire just barely fits and the battery has to sit in a certain position for it to not stress the cable so be aware of that. I followed the old BDS guide the best that I could. The front grille doesn't fit like it should and I can't figure out why but it's not noticable I believe its just the main clip might be lose on the actual grille causing it to be pushed out a little on the left light. As for the actual bumper, according to PA your supposed to trim it but I was able to clip the square where the torque head bolts go on the bottom and then bend back the bottom part of my bumper enough for it to clear. I don't own a grinder so this worked perfectly and looks great, plus you can still use all the stock mounting hardware. I'll send pictures of that tomorrow. Overall it took about twelve hours to do it all but it was rough I'll tell you that haha. I'll make sure to get plenty pictures tomorrow of the front, new upper arms, and try to get a picture of the brackets. Unfortunately I don't know what to do with my spare tire. Either A, I'll drill a new hole so I can still use it or, B ill have to get a roof basket and mount the tire up there.

 

Here's pictures of where I clipped and flexed rather than cut the bumper, as well as the front. CV Angles look good I'm going for an alignment after I put my bilsteins in tomorrow.

 

Looking good!

 

Noticed some oil just behind the oil pan going towards the rear. I've got no idea what it is but its directly past the oil pan between the transmission pan and the oil pan. Maybe once I get the car running again it'll stop leaking. Also observed a lot of liquid underneath the front end. Turns out the pitman arm seal in the steering gear gave out and now it leaks quickly out the bottom. I've taken it out of the car and am going to replace just the pitman shaft seals for now. I hope what I mentioned above isn't the rear main seal..

 

Put in new steering gear pitman shaft seals today, going to get the box and one shock in tomorrow. I'm going to have to press another balljoint into the driver side arm as the threads on the old one are no longer usable. Took my torque wrench to it and yeah.. After that's done it should be good to go. I might throw some AT 205 in the engine if it starts leaking in the rear or just pay the price and get it fixed. If all goes well and I don't have to fix an oil leak then I'll see if 32s fit.

 

I finally got it back together and they said theres and issue with the driver side, you stated the torsion key looked like it was one notch off? They want 410 bucks to fix it and they said they'll have to take everything apart to find the issue, apparently the tie rod is maxed out on the drivers side or something like that. Do you think its that?

 

Judging by the last posted picture, it didn't look too bad... its hard to say the actually issue now without a current pic.

What is the problem that they are saying?

 

If the tie rod is marked out, it wouldn't be the torsion key. It would be something along the steering link. Pitman arm and idler arm. Maybe the tie rods werent centered on the adjusters?