Does it correctly ID the cylinder that you disabled as a misfire?

If so, then you don't need a crank sensor or CASE relearn as your misfire detection system is working fine.

Check the camshaft sensor retard and adjust if not 0° ± 2°. This being out can cause a P0300. Replace cap and rotor with AC/Delco after this is done, as misfiring from misadjustment may have damage them. Clear codes, drive, and report please.

Les

 

Thank you, Les. Will do so. I have to put some time in the shop here and I'll be back on the Blazer in a couple days.

Regards,

Josh

 

Hi Guys,

I got it figured out. I'd assumed that the person who had the distributor out before had put it back correctly. However, I'd been getting P0300 codes that I ASSumed was the intake manifold gasket.

When I changed the intake manifold gasket and reinstalled the distributor as it had been installed before, the misfires still existed. Here I ASSumed I had advanced a tooth and turned it back one.

It ran fine, but threw the code.

I found time tonight to align #1 TDC and align the rotor with the #6 mark on the distributor. It fired up, drives fine, and I have no codes.

How do I know the distributor was pulled before? I ASSume it was, because the gear looks to be in good shape.

Now, someone somewhere mentioned an aluminum distributor for this thing for something like $40. I can't find it. Help?

Thank you,

Josh

 

White Performance Detail Description

 

I just went through a semi similar issue with mine after installing a new distributor. The issue with these motors is that it's nearly impossible to put a new distributor in them and get them to be on time because of the oil pump being driven by the distributor gear (I'm not saying people don't get it in but it's a pain in the a##!) What I ended up having to do to get it set properly was to set the distributor in with the rotor a bit before the 6 and then turn the motor by hand to get it to drop in properly. I also drilled out the bolt hole on the hold down clamp to allow me to make small adjustments. With that ability I hooked it up top a snap on scanner and was able to see my cam retard in real time and adjust it to "0" then tighten down the hold down and now it fires right up with the tap of the key sends runs sooooo smooth.

 

Hello,

You might try this, next time, as it's easier:

1. Turn the motor so #1 is at TDC.

2. Locate the #6 on the distributor. Align the rotor with it.

3. Look at the roll pin holding the gear on the distributor. There's a mark halfway up the distributor. Align the roll pin with this mark.

4. Insert the distributor into the engine with the mark aligned with the roll pin. You'll see the rotor rotate to #6 on the distributor.

4a. If it doesn't go down all the way, rotate the oil pump shaft with a long screwdriver to align it with the distributor and try again.

4b. An alternative to this, at least on my Blazer, was to simply pull the distributor out multiple times. Each time I pulled the distributor out, it rotated the pump shaft clockwise one tooth's worth

Regards,

Josh

 

Thank you, Les! That's a thing of beauty!

Josh

 

That's exactly how I did it but it would still not align exactly on. The cam retard was trading at about -4 when I did it this way so that's why I decided to go the route I did to get out exactly at zero and know its proper. Mine was running fine at the -4 with an occasional misfire butt not throwing any codes.

 

Tonight, I replaced the clamp with one that will allow me to turn it.

Not that I see much need, but darnit, I want the ability.

Josh