Hey!
Thank you DonL, LesMyer and Mike for your responses, seriously. I'm all alone on this project and appreciate the advice, as I don't know what I'm doing. Learning as I go! So, yesterday I did the 2nd oxygen sensor, and let me tell you, it came right out . Maybe cause the PB blaster soaked all night. It was great, and working on the drivers side was much easier, its placement was much more convenient then the passenger side one. However, both pretty easy to get to. This was a perfect beginners project. So, yesterday was a good day. When I finished I noticed a lot of smoke coming out of the muffler, but I drove it around and it cleared right up. Car is running great. I want to buy a scanner like you mentioned- but until then maybe today Ill take it up to O-rilleys and see if the po155 codes are gone. That would be great. Ive drove the car maybe twice since I changed the 02 out.. question,
Do I have to drive it for awhile before the computer will delete the codes, or do I have to have somebody delete them for me...or if I buy a scanner can I do it myself?
I know my check engine light will still be on for the p0101 code. So, Next I will deal with that, I bought Mass Airflow Cleaner and I plan to pull that part out and spray it down with that, I'll be careful not to touch the inside of it. Fingers crossed thats all I need to do.
About the scanners, no I don't have a android- I have a iPhone. I would be very interested in getting a scanner and doing what was said here....

"We can give you approximate values for the MAF sensor at idle and different RPMs, but you would need to have a way of displaying the value your PCM is seeing - again another PID. These two PIDs should be on any scanner device (more than a code reader), as they are universal and not GM specific PIDs. MAF should be around 5 g/sec at idle."

I will try to figure this out, the brands you listed, will those work with a iPhone? I guess I'm a little confused. is it a scanner by itself or is it a app on a phone?!?..but I know I need a scanner!! I'm just not sure about all the app stuff? lol you lost me. Ill try to do some research so I know more about what your talking about. Also, Ill check out the link you provided for the OBD2. Isn't it weird I got this code twice (P0155 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit (bank 2, sensor 1)) Im interested to go find out if its gone now.
All this stuff is over my head but I'll get there.. thank you. Honestly, if I could figure out the exact scanner I needed, I would buy one today. I'm confused about he apps tho...
Thanks Mike for comparing me to a unicorn lmao- thats awesome. Unicorns are rare and beautiful creatures! I feel super proud for doing this, and I feel more confident now...so onwards and upwards. I will post what I get for codes next time I check, and Ill also let you know how the MAF cleaning goes. Plus work on getting a scanner or at least learning more about them. OK, hope y'all have a good day. Thanks again!!!!

 

Basically, you buy a dongle thingy like this WiFi one for iOS devices that plugs into the car's computer scan port, then use a smartphone and an app like Dash Command ($10) to talk to the dongle and display the output. This tends to be more capable and cost effective than cheap standalone scanners like the one you showed that's about $50 and can't really even do much either, and it's more convenient that running to the parts store all the time.

 

The diagnostic set consist of two things:
- a dongle (hardware plug), that is plugged into the OBD2 socket (there, where You've plugged in the Scanner). There are wide variety of dongles, but BAFX commended by Les has proven to work with Car Gauge android app. The app has some nifty features other apps don't have, so generally it is a good idea to spend a few dollars more to get the right dongle. For some reasons, the cheapest dongle do not operate with Car Gauge, but they generally work well with another apps like Torque. The dongle converts the OBD2 car protocol and send it over a WiFi or Bluetooth. Bluetooth seems to be more handy than WiFi. Switching over WiFi internet and WiFi Blazer may be a PITA.
- a software. There are free apps that You may use, like a Torque Lite. You may want to get the Car Gauge (imho it has a terrible user interface, despite I've paid for it, I still prefer to use Torque if I can).

Thing is, that if You can look up the readings of the ECU and other things it is easier to troubleshoot and come with an accurate diagnose. That saves time and money. As, for example, You might connect and check with the app what signal sees Your O2 sensor You have just extracted. Then You'd see if they were dead for sure... Or You may post the MAF readings so that someone here could compare with his own readings.

Good luck and keep us updated! Fingers crossed for a good weather!

 

Like Rock 18 said, the Dash Command is a good app for iPhone but requires a WiFi OBD2 device (not Bluetooth). Dash Command will be $10 + $10 more for the GM PIDs for your vehicle = $20. Dash Command is the only one I know that is both good and can work with iPhone. First you purchase and install it. Then you buy the GM PIDs from within the app after you connect with your vehicle. If Rock18 has a good WiFi device identified I would go with it. It will take forever for the computer to clear itself. Codes can be cleared using most any scanner or by yourself with the app. The app on the phone will do much more than the cheap hand held scanners. Good luck!!

 

Hey everybody,
So tonight i went to O-Rilleys, for air filter cleaner, since I was going to clean my MAF..I figured maybe the air filter could be cleaned too. Anyways, I asked to use there computer, even though I just changed my 02 sensors. Well, this time I got a total of 6 codes and the new codes being 2 x p0154 and a new p0101. So, I hope I didn't make more of a mess from changing those 02 sensors. Anyways, the guy earased all the codes for me and my check engine light is off for the time being. I was even thinking about going to emissions in the morning to see if I could pass. You never know! before my check engine light comes back on. I know this may not work, but its worth a try i guess. Anyways, if these new codes give anybody an idea of what I got going on please let me know! Thank you
Abby
PS. after emissions I think the plan is still to spray out the MAF. Let me know if there is anything else I should try or be thinking about. Im going to google these new codes I got and try to figure it out. I might need to take my car in, I just worry I'm going to make the problem worse. Yet, Im still going to try to fix myself I haven't given up hope yet just feel like I got bad news tonight
pictures below

O-rilleys computer



I got K&N recharged to clean my air filter

 

The SES light being off is a good sign. The codes could be left over from before or working on the vehicle. As I understand, no more have seen set since the codes were last cleared. However I'm guessing it we be some time until emissions readiness testing will all be completed by your PCM (vehicle computer). Typically this is required to pass emissions and they can read the testing results. Typically scanners have the ability to tell the status of the emissions readiness tests so if O-reileys can tell you they have all passed, then you can take in to emissions with confidence.

 

The one I linked was the BAFX (WiFi for iOS) one you were discussing a few days back so hopefully it's good.

 

Yeah the P0101 is still for the MAF, and cleaning it should resolve that code. It's not hard, just be careful not to touch or damage it. Here's a good video about it in case you haven't seen:
(Yeah that's a Ford/Mazda, but the procedure is about the same)

Troubleshooting the O2 sensor codes is beyond my experience, but I'd be guessing too that they might just be old codes. Regardless, it's unlikely you worsened anything by changing the sensors, and they're the kind of thing that eventually need changing anyways.

The system needs to go through a complete 'drive cycle' to perform all its self-tests; it practical terms that's usually about a tank of gas or so worth of driving. You can force trigger the tests by using this procedure but it's kind of a pain in the neck tbh.

My state allows a free temporary 30-day registration if you're trying to work through emissions issues, I just have to go to the DMV and sign up for it. That might be worth looking into so you can at least drive around and test without fear of attracting tickets.

Yes, the 'recharge' kit is the right one for the air filter. Follow the directions, it's not too hard. It's just important to make sure it's completely dry before re-oiling it; I usually lay mine with a desk fan gently blowing up it overnight to be sure it's dry.

 

WiFi BAFX won't work with android CarGauge, CG is Bluetooth only.

 

...as for P0154, the code is set, when PCM cannot see the valid signal from an O2 sensor passenger side. I assume You have it already replaced? If so, then You have to follow the wire and check if it's not frayed/torn somewhere.