I have zero experience with the wifi version. But bafx seems to care about their quality. All I know.

 

hi Mike, I'm wondering if that code was set while working on the vehicle. Maybe just turn key on or start engine with O2 sensor unplugged?

 

Car Gauge Pro works with BT dongles only (at least the paid version I have). It's not the matter of BAFX quality.

I am guessing, re-starting the engine should move the current error codes to the error codes history, if they are gone. But I am not sure of it. Honestly, I've never paid attention to that.

 

 

Yes, I know. Abby has an iPhone and must use Wifi because iPhones do not allow you to use Bluetooth for anything but audio. So I have recommended Dash Command to her (as an iOS version of it is available). I was just commenting that if the BAFX Bluetooth OBD2 adapter is good, then the Wifi version of the BAFX (one that Rock 18 linked to) is also probably good - but I have no experience with the Wifi version.

 

Good luck

 

 

HEy,
Sorry I have so many questions, but my air filter is a K&N brand, but its black, I posted a picture above. I am not sure if I should use the oil that the cleaning kit came with. It seems that K&N has a few different types of air filters. Also, the purpose for cleaning it was to fix my MAF and now Im also reading the oil is bad for MAF. I'm going to be lightly oiling it in the morning, but if anyone has any knowledge about my air filter, I would love to get a second oppinion. The filters that look to be oiled seem to be red, mines is black, and then I read somewhere they do have a black filter that shouldn't be oiled. UGH. To oil or not to oil... I wish I knew exactly what I was dealing with here. Ok thanks for reading!!
~Abby

 

They look red when they're new or freshly/thoroughly cleaned, and more recent ones had the fabric dyed red to start with too so they look REALLY red. But they all wind up looking black/gray from collected road dirt and engine grime. When they get really black it's usually a sign they're past the point where they need cleaning so you're doing the right thing.

The oils and cleaning kits are essentially the same, regardless if it's any K&N or even a similar cotton-gauze reusable/washable filter from another brand. You've got the right kit; though they sell different ones, it's mainly in differences of packaging, aerosol/hand pump dispenser etc. for convenience. Any one of the kits is just fine.

Strictly speaking oil (or at least excess oils that get through the filter) might indeed gum up the MAF especially if used in excess or improperly cleaned (especially if re-oiled wet so it just slides through). But only a little, and regardless it's easy enough to clean the MAF now and then as you're probably familiar with by now. And once any oil on the MAF is cleaned off you're back to good-as-new; it's not like oils might eat the MAF somehow.

You should absolutely use the oil that came with your 'recharge' kit to oil the filter before running that filter in the truck. The oil is a critical part of the operation of cotton-gauze filters that helps the filter media grab stuff out of the air that passes through it. Without the oil, it becomes more of a screen than a filter and won't reliably catch the kind of stuff it's intended to. If you got real nervous you could replace the K&N with a conventional paper filter if you had the factory airbox to hold it too, but a proper cleaning of the filter you've got should be just fine.

Also, good job for putting a rag in the intake when the filter was out to prevent contaminants from getting in. I probably wouldn't have even bothered unless it was real dusty out, but it sure couldn't hurt.

Take a deep breath. It's going to be okay.

 

Hi Abby, just thought I would show you what the emissions readiness monitor (thing that failed your emissions testing) looks like in Dash Command. This is on my 2004 Chevy Avalanche. I cleared codes last weekend after working on the HVAC system (this resets all the readiness monitors), and as you can see there is still one system that has not completed testing yet. The second screen capture has details for the readiness monitors, and you can see it is the Evaporative System testing that has not yet completed. Note there are some of the monitors not shown on the second screen capture. This is because they all don't fit on a single page and some scroll out of view. Green is tested and passed. Yellow is not applicable to vehicle. Red means not completed yet. Not sure what color would be a fail when the testing has completed.

Sometimes these emissions readiness tests have a mind of their own and a proper drive cycle doesn't seem to trigger them. This can be for various reasons like the weather outside, how much gas you have in your vehicle, or other things. So drive it for a week in various traffic conditions with half a tank of gas (Portland shouldn't have very extreme weather) - and if the SES light doesn't come on, the emissions readiness tests should run by then. Did the guy mention which readiness monitor(s) haven't completed? We could help guide you to operate the vehicle in a certain way to help trigger the testing if you know this. If the SES light comes on again, the problem will need to be fixed, the codes cleared, and all the emissions readiness testing completely repeated.