I have only done the drivers door and only seen threads for drivers doors so I don't know if the bushings are the same for the other 3 doors. The key is what do the holes for the bushings look like. If they are still round and the proper diameter then std bushings. If enlarged then OS bushings. If all wobbled out and oblong then welding or some type of metal repair and OS bushings. I got to mine soon enough and used standard bushings, Since your strike plate was repaired its possible that when the door does not sag anymore, it will be hard to close again. It depends on if the welding job accomodated the sagging or attempted to be in the original position.

Use the search function here and review your threads from the beginning to get all the advice you have been given.


George

 

alright I figured out the sagging problem for my doors. the bushings were definitely broken off and one of my doors the pin completely came out of the hole. Now there seems to be another problem. I got my AC fixed and it works pretty good. However I have been noticing that when I idle for too long like in stop and go traffic my AC stops working and then when I try to go my engine revs up really bad without putting my foot too much on the pedal. I also noticed that my car is starting to overheat while idle as well. I replaced all the parts needed for the cooling system like my water pump my thermostat flushed the radiator. Would this be the fan clutch causing these problems now?

 

I would check the pullies, maybe the compressor is starting to seize? Have you shot it with some wd40?

 

When your AC stops working is the blower motor still running? Is the compressor still running?

Was your truck overheating before you replaced the cooling system components?

Do you have a scanner with live data?


George

 

By cooling system if you mean the AC system then no it was not overheating before then I had replaced the water pump and thermostat before I replaced the compressor and condenser. As for the blower motor the air still blows into the car just fine its just when I am idling at a long light or on the freeway it just stops blowing in the cold air and starts blowing in warm air.

 

So it did not used to over heat before at all but it started after replacing some components? Which components?

Does it overheat if you turn the AC off?

Is the compressor running when the AC is turned on but the system stops cooling?

Can you look at your TPS values in live data on a scanner?


George

 

I replaced my water pump, thermostat, radiator fluid, and flushed the radiator

No I turned off my AC and it started cooling down again but it only overheats when I am idling, while im driving its fine. What are TPS values?

 

You have described multiple problems and they may or may not be related.

So which replacements caused the overheating problem? The engine cooling system or the AC components?

It only overheats when the AC is running?

When the AC is on but stops blowing cold is the AC compressor running?

TPS is your throttle position sensor. I'm trying to see if you have the live data scanner capability to look at your TPS sensor value to see if thats why you have that rpm surge when you start depressing the accelerator pedal. If thats OK then we look elsewhere.


George

 

I actually have a video that I can show you what my compressor does while its idle. Let me see if i can insert it in here. As for the data scanner I do not own one and I am not sure how to get one.

 

My blazer I was not able to send it through a file on here so hopefully this works.