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95 Blazer runs crappy

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  #31  
Old 01-31-2011, 09:05 PM
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Update: After a few weeks of totalfrustration....expensive frustration...I replaced the stock POS plastic distributor for a brand new high performance billet aluminum distributor, and it fires up and runs, a bit of rough idle when cold. I put in a new crank sensor and apparently they need some sort of electronic voodoo, done by the dealer no doubt.
 
  #32  
Old 02-12-2011, 01:55 PM
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Well the Blazer runs better than ever. The problem (which the dealer didn't catch) turned out to be an electrical failure with the maxi-jet. I am pleased to have found a reputable shop nearby who figured it out and inexpensively (labour anyways) the failing maxi-injector would run then screw up...then blow the ECM. A new ECM and spider and it runs better than ever! The down side was the bucks spent finding out what it was....the plus is almost all the sensors are new and I know a lot more about the damned thing.
 
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:55 PM
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make sure you got the right wires. had simular problems in the past with my 95. there was a difference between 4.3 and 4.3 vortec wires. good luck!
 
  #34  
Old 02-17-2011, 07:22 PM
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what was the bill on the ecm and spider?
 
  #35  
Old 02-18-2011, 09:43 AM
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Originally I went to a shop that charged me $145 to tell me to take it to the dealer, the dealer spent a couple hours onit and noted it would start and run for five seconds then stop....then they made a note that it started and ran (poorly) with no idea how or why it started and sent me off costing $286. The shop I was just at spent almost a full day on it, did the swap and replaced both spider assembly and ECM (which was blown by the failing injector). Total cost of $750 and it runs perfectly now. If I had known about these guys earlier and taken it there first I wold have saved almost a grand extra in costs.
 
  #36  
Old 05-23-2012, 09:43 PM
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maxi-jet must not be the correct terminology. What is the correct word? I cannot locate anything regarding this on google at all and I am having a similar issue
 
  #37  
Old 05-24-2012, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mikede123
I've read through all your posts and I wanted to ask you if when checking your fuel pressure with the key on but engine not running, does your fuel pressure hold at 55psi (or higher) for at least 3 minutes? I had a very similiar problem with mine and I replaced the spider injection because it was leaking. I had great pressure when the key was turned to the on position, but the pressure would drop a few seconds after. Then when I would crank the engine the pressure would come back up to 59psi. For me it was a bad nut kit, or fuel line assembly because of the fast bleed down time. I know you have mentioned that the pressure was good when the key was on, and when you cranked the engine, as well as when it was actually running, but I just thought to let you know the pressure should hold at 55 or higher when not running as well (for a few minutes anyway).

I just saw your photo from I think post 6 and you are correct about the gold color showing signs of leaks. I say those popets on the left side are leaking when vehicle is running and you are going to have to replace spider. Again as I said in last post if pressure drops quickly I would also replace nut kit assembly. The inside of the plenum should not be gold like that is spots, shows fuel leaking. When vehicle is running you can look inside plenum through the hole in the top with a flashlight and see fuel spraying. In your post 8 you say it's all back together, but you don't mention if you replaced the spider or if you just put everything back together because you did not see ant spraying when you cranked the motor (at least that's what I read, unless I missed something you said). I have a spider for this vehicle that should be good if you want to try it. Just email me if you want it.


Still have that spider?
 
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