95 S10 Blazer Service engine soon light on, no codes
#11
Well, I did the standard tune up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor, all AC Delco) and found 3 plugs with some pretty heavy deposits. Fired it up and it ran about the same, very spongy, no power.
I removed the upper intake tuning valve and saw some fuel puddling in the plenum, I thought "Great, it's the fuel pressure regulator, problem diagnosed." I opted for a complete replacement unit rather than just the regulator. Long story short on that, $300 less in my wallet and my problem was still there.
I made what I consider to be a great investment, a $35 factory manual set from Ebay. It's comical to stack the factory manual next to the Chilton. About 3 times as thick, thinner pages and smaller print to boot. I don't think I'll ever buy a Chilton for one of my vehicles again.
Anyway, after reading the diagnostic flowchart for my vehicle symptoms I decided to take a look at the exhaust system. I started by measuring engine vacuum at the manifold. At idle it was pulling about 15 inches of vacuum, at a steady 2500 RPM it was almost zero, indicating a possible exhaust restriction.
I then drilled a 3/16 hole immediately before the converter and used a fuel pump/vacuum gauge to measure exhaust backpressure. I was getting about 1.5 psi at idle (manual says no more than 1.25) and 7.5 psi at 2000 RPMS (manual says no more than 3). I then drilled another 3/16 hole immediately after the converter and welded the first hole shut. Less than 1 psi after the converter. I'm going to try a straight pipe in place of the converter sometime this week. If all goes well I'll throw a new converter in and hopefully be on my way! I'll let you all know how it goes.
I removed the upper intake tuning valve and saw some fuel puddling in the plenum, I thought "Great, it's the fuel pressure regulator, problem diagnosed." I opted for a complete replacement unit rather than just the regulator. Long story short on that, $300 less in my wallet and my problem was still there.
I made what I consider to be a great investment, a $35 factory manual set from Ebay. It's comical to stack the factory manual next to the Chilton. About 3 times as thick, thinner pages and smaller print to boot. I don't think I'll ever buy a Chilton for one of my vehicles again.
Anyway, after reading the diagnostic flowchart for my vehicle symptoms I decided to take a look at the exhaust system. I started by measuring engine vacuum at the manifold. At idle it was pulling about 15 inches of vacuum, at a steady 2500 RPM it was almost zero, indicating a possible exhaust restriction.
I then drilled a 3/16 hole immediately before the converter and used a fuel pump/vacuum gauge to measure exhaust backpressure. I was getting about 1.5 psi at idle (manual says no more than 1.25) and 7.5 psi at 2000 RPMS (manual says no more than 3). I then drilled another 3/16 hole immediately after the converter and welded the first hole shut. Less than 1 psi after the converter. I'm going to try a straight pipe in place of the converter sometime this week. If all goes well I'll throw a new converter in and hopefully be on my way! I'll let you all know how it goes.
#13
So I've been snooping around the forum for advice on whether or not to buy a direct fit or universal catalytic converter, and I've heard a few folks condemning the magnaflow universal. This was the one that I had planned on picking up, as I have the time and a welder to make everything fit. I'm wondering if the reason people are giving these a bad review, is the fact that they are simply replacing the converter without correcting the problem that caused it to fail in the first place. As I understand it, these things don't just decide to plug up on their own, there is usually some other issue with the vehicle that causes them to fail. Any thoughts?
#14
Replaced the converter with a Magnflow universal. Ran like a champ for the first day. On the way home from work the next day, it started idling like crap but would run fine while in motion. Took a good look at the factory manual this Sunday and found that the EGR valve was stuck in the open position due to a chunk of carbon. I'm pretty sure I dislodged this chunk of carbon when I was messing around in the upper intake manifold. I made the mistake of not cleaning the passages and valve while I had the upper plenum off. The valve and passages are a lot easier to get to with the plenum off. I was also finally able to retrieve trouble codes with the scanner that Oreilly's had. It was an Autoxray Codescout 2500. The scan tool that I was using before was the Innovia 3100,doesn't seem to work on my particular vehicle. Thanks for the help guys!
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