I recently replaced the ac compressor the drier can and orfrice tube all new parts. I charged it up and it blows cool air not cold air. On hot days its enough to keep you from sweating but it doesnt really chill you at all. I noticed that the part that the drier can connects to that looks like it goes inside towards the dashboard (its a black box looking thing) the black box is cracked and cold air was blowing out of it. I sealed it up good with tape so it doesn't blow anymore cold air out of it.

Also, my vents only blow front and foot vents at the same time or defrost vent.

I want my ac freezing cold and I think I it should be if I replace the system with all new parts.

 

Before you replace any more parts...
Did you evacuate the system for at least 1 hour before charging? If not, installing the required amount of refrigerant will end up overcharging the system and cause poor performance.

Does the vehicle have automatic temperature control or manual A/C?

 

Did you hook a manifold gauge set to it? The pressure readings, in addition to the ambient air temperature and temperature of the air coming from the vents could narrow the problem down a lot.

 

Yes the system was properly evacuated and recharged. I currently have the proper pressure in correspondence with the outside temperature.

Its funny because when I pointed a temperature reading gun at the vents with the ac on max the temperature read 24 degrees f with an outside temperature of about 80 degrees and that was at idle. The car seemed actually freezing inside. But once I started driving and it got hotter outside it seems like it doesn't get that cold at all.

also I believe it has manual air conditioning settings

 

24F at the register outlets is a problem. If it remains below 32F, the evaporator will ice up and the register outlet temp will increase.

Engine at 1500rpm, A/C set to MAX, windows and doors closed:
What are the low side cycling pressures, (when the compressor turns on, and when it shuts off)?
What are the high side cycling pressures, (when the compressor turns on, and when it shuts off)?
Also need to know ambient temperature and percentage of humidity when you run these tests. Compressor ON time, OFF time and total cycle time would be very helpful as well.

Just an FYI: Depending on ambient temp & humidity, R134a CCOT, (clutch cycling orifice tube) systems will generally provide a 20F temperature drop below ambient. Anything more is a bonus.