Well, it sounds like you have confirmed that you have fuel... Two other things that are necessary for proper combustion, air and spark. Air should be pretty easy. I would start by checking the spark. You can pull a plug and see how strong the spark looks by grounding the plug while you turn the engine over.

And I never like to throw parts at a problem, mainly because I don't have money to waste on parts. I'd rather spend money on the proper diagnostic tools than just throw parts at a problem.

 

Well I can assure you that a rotor, distribution cap, coil, and ICM didn't cure the problem. Any other thoughts? My friend has a repair shop for big trucks and he scanned it with his scanner and I have no codes. Could this be an ECM problem? Thanks again.

 

Did you verify spark? If you did, how did it look?

It is possible that the fuel pressure regulator has failed and is flooding the engine with fuel... If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, see what the pressure is with the key on, engine off. The pressure should be in excess of 55psi to start. If it isn't, your fuel pump could be gone. Then turn the key off and watch the pressure. If it drops off quickly, you have a leak. From there you can pull off the throttle body and use a mechanics mirror to look towards the back of the manifold where the fuel pressure regulator is located. You are looking for wetness under the rear of the injection spider.

 

Well the battery was getting weak by the time I got those parts on there the other morning. I put the charger on it that night and it started like a champ the next day. So I believe the ICM was my true culprit. I had spark but it didn't wan't to fire the other day. So I think the time I let it set after the parts were replaced, allowed the flooded cylinders time to evaporate. Thus allowing an easy start the following day. Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated.