I still can't get this bolt off.

I've mangled 4 Torx bits (2 Great Neck and 2 Duralast) in the process and have gotten countless injuries - it's kinda fun but it's really drained my energy for this project...

Anyway, I've tried PB B'laster but I don't think it's getting down to the threading and the bolt hasn't budged an inch.

I'm tempted to use something like and EZ out on it but my mechanic strongly recommended against it given that it's the bolt that holds down my restraint and the only circumstance he'd try to get it out is if the seat belt was damaged and it was imperative that it be replaced. Other than that, he says, just clean around the area and hope for the best.

The thing is i've spent already close to 20 hours cleaning the interior of this car out and to give up this far along is a bunch of BS, especially since it's that driver's seat that I really needed to clean under... so...

i'm thinking I need to spray this bolt from underneath, but I can't find where it goes thru the floorboards when i get under there... do i need to move something to get to it or is it not visible from underneath the car?

Failing that, i do want to bust this thing out at all costs, short of potentially damaging the threading in the floorboards, because this IS what is holding me back in case of a crash, after all...

 

Find someone with a Mac or SnapOn torx that fits and then hit it with an impact.

 

an impact gun?

 

I had the same issue when removing the front seats in my Blazer. I tried to heat them, soak them with penatrant, ect. Only to strip out the torx head. I ended up drilling them both out. these are hardened bolts so you need a sharp bit and if be prepared to resharpen the drill quite a few times. Like Swartkll said drill slow and use lots of cutting oil. I wouldn't cut the head off, instead use the torx opening to center you drill bit and do you're best to stay centered. Take your time don't rush, if you run off center the sheetmetal is a lot softer and your bit will try to walk out.
I ended up retapping the hole to a standard pitch 1/2" grade 8 Allen bolt with the same head as the torx. If you have a hex head and the cover will still hide it, it should be good. If you do start to run off center, use a smaller bit and aim towards the other side, once your through you can size up the bits and try cleaning the hole of bolt.

 

Yes. You already have the seat out, yes? So you have a direct line into the torx head, hit it with an impact gun, if you already have pretty well destroyed the head of the torx what do you have to loose.

The problem that you are having is when you first started you did not use a large enough tool, i.e. breaker bar or something of that nature. When you use a short'ish ratchet you bugger up the teeth in the head of the bolt because you are not able to get enough *** behind it to get it loose; the torx driver twists out of the head.

I had the same problem with rear hub torx head bolts on an old Buick Skylark. Broke two torx drivers, borrowed a SnapOn and hit with the impact gun and it came right out.

It's worth a shot.

 

actually, I don't have the seat out - the torx bolt is holding it in still - but I bought an impact gun today (240 ft/lbs of torque and 7000 rpms) and am trying to find a way to get the PB B'laster onto the bolt, perhaps from the chassis underneath? Is there even a way to get to the bolt from underneath? from what I understand, the bolt goes direct into the chassis, but the clearance under my car is kind of low for me and any time i get under it, it's very uncomfortable, so I will probably have to lift it or jack it up.

 

I don't think the bolt goes into the chassis - it should go into a reinforced part of the floorboard. Shouldn't be to hard to find once you get under there.

 

took a look today but couldn't see it, maybe take a flashlight with me next time...

 

If you know any airplane mechanics ask them if they have a "screwbuster". It's a tool we use to get screws and bolts out that are a real bit!! It goes into a .401 shank rivet gun or air hammer and has a (usually) 3/8" male socket fitting on the end. You put it in a pneumaric gun/hammer, put whatever socket you want on the other end and it has a handle that sticks out for you to loosen the screw/bolt/whatever. Just squeeze the trigger as you push hard and turn the handle lefty loosey. Works like a champ. Here's one place you can buy one. Everyone should have one. Pretty selfexplanatory when you see it. Kinda like an impact only better for what you want.
http://www.browntool.com/Default.asp...cProductNumber

 

i tried to get that bolt out last week on a blazer i was working on, i tried a breaker bar then an impact wrench, and ended up just rounding the inside of that torx bolt. i had to drill it out. sucks, but i expect nothing less when working on a 12 year old vehicle... it's always something, never easy.