99,4x4 W/Aluminum oil pan
#1
99,4x4 W/Aluminum oil pan
Can pan gasket be changed with engine in Blazer ?
leak at rear of pan where rear main cap meets oil pan.
(all in one oil pan/dust cover three lower bell bolts go though oil pan)
Thanks: BillyMac
leak at rear of pan where rear main cap meets oil pan.
(all in one oil pan/dust cover three lower bell bolts go though oil pan)
Thanks: BillyMac
Last edited by BillyMac; 11-12-2010 at 03:47 PM.
#2
According to the factory service manual, no. The pan must be properly aligned to the back of the block.
Have you tried tightening the pan bolts? I had a nasty leak on my old 2k Bravada (same as a Blazer) and tightening the bolts did the trick. Well, I had to do it twice since they loosened up again. The second time I removed the bolts, cleaned the threads on the bolt and in the block, then reinstalled them with some medium strength loctite.
Have you tried tightening the pan bolts? I had a nasty leak on my old 2k Bravada (same as a Blazer) and tightening the bolts did the trick. Well, I had to do it twice since they loosened up again. The second time I removed the bolts, cleaned the threads on the bolt and in the block, then reinstalled them with some medium strength loctite.
#3
Wile it can be done in a 4x4 its a big task. Here are the mitchel directions simplified.
Disconnect battery and remove battery tray. Disconnect shift cable at actuator. Raise and support vehicle.
Remove underbody shield from steering linkage and engine oil pan. Drain crankcase. Remove starter motor.
Remove oil cooler pipes and both front wheels. Disconnect electrical connector and remove wiring harness
bracket at shift cable housing. Remove 3 shift cable housing bolts and disconnect shift cable from differential
carrier. Remove both front drive axles. Remove differential housing. Remove 10 oil pan bolts, 2 nuts at
crankshaft rear oil seal and remove 2 transmission to oil pan bolts. Remove oil pan from vehicle.
I just did this in my 2000 blazer and since i didn't remove the tras the pan went right back on and all is good as far as the pan goes. Removing the front carrier to get that pan off is a pain as the entire front steering had to be removed as well. So if you want my 2c. If your gonna tackle it might as well repair anything that's wrong with the front end also. Such as upper/lower ball joints, cv axles, idler arm, pit-man arm, tie rods. Seeing as you will have all of this disassembled to get the pan off its a perfect time to replace that stuff as well.
Good luck if you tackle this job its a fun one.
Oh and heres the pan tightening sequence if ya need it.
Disconnect battery and remove battery tray. Disconnect shift cable at actuator. Raise and support vehicle.
Remove underbody shield from steering linkage and engine oil pan. Drain crankcase. Remove starter motor.
Remove oil cooler pipes and both front wheels. Disconnect electrical connector and remove wiring harness
bracket at shift cable housing. Remove 3 shift cable housing bolts and disconnect shift cable from differential
carrier. Remove both front drive axles. Remove differential housing. Remove 10 oil pan bolts, 2 nuts at
crankshaft rear oil seal and remove 2 transmission to oil pan bolts. Remove oil pan from vehicle.
I just did this in my 2000 blazer and since i didn't remove the tras the pan went right back on and all is good as far as the pan goes. Removing the front carrier to get that pan off is a pain as the entire front steering had to be removed as well. So if you want my 2c. If your gonna tackle it might as well repair anything that's wrong with the front end also. Such as upper/lower ball joints, cv axles, idler arm, pit-man arm, tie rods. Seeing as you will have all of this disassembled to get the pan off its a perfect time to replace that stuff as well.
Good luck if you tackle this job its a fun one.
Oh and heres the pan tightening sequence if ya need it.
#4
According to the factory service manual, no. The pan must be properly aligned to the back of the block.
Have you tried tightening the pan bolts? I had a nasty leak on my old 2k Bravada (same as a Blazer) and tightening the bolts did the trick. Well, I had to do it twice since they loosened up again. The second time I removed the bolts, cleaned the threads on the bolt and in the block, then reinstalled them with some medium strength loctite.
Have you tried tightening the pan bolts? I had a nasty leak on my old 2k Bravada (same as a Blazer) and tightening the bolts did the trick. Well, I had to do it twice since they loosened up again. The second time I removed the bolts, cleaned the threads on the bolt and in the block, then reinstalled them with some medium strength loctite.
Wile it can be done in a 4x4 its a big task. Here are the mitchel directions simplified.
Disconnect battery and remove battery tray. Disconnect shift cable at actuator. Raise and support vehicle.
Remove underbody shield from steering linkage and engine oil pan. Drain crankcase. Remove starter motor.
Remove oil cooler pipes and both front wheels. Disconnect electrical connector and remove wiring harness
bracket at shift cable housing. Remove 3 shift cable housing bolts and disconnect shift cable from differential
carrier. Remove both front drive axles. Remove differential housing. Remove 10 oil pan bolts, 2 nuts at
crankshaft rear oil seal and remove 2 transmission to oil pan bolts. Remove oil pan from vehicle.
I just did this in my 2000 blazer and since i didn't remove the tras the pan went right back on and all is good as far as the pan goes. Removing the front carrier to get that pan off is a pain as the entire front steering had to be removed as well. So if you want my 2c. If your gonna tackle it might as well repair anything that's wrong with the front end also. Such as upper/lower ball joints, cv axles, idler arm, pit-man arm, tie rods. Seeing as you will have all of this disassembled to get the pan off its a perfect time to replace that stuff as well.
Good luck if you tackle this job its a fun one.
Oh and heres the pan tightening sequence if ya need it.
Disconnect battery and remove battery tray. Disconnect shift cable at actuator. Raise and support vehicle.
Remove underbody shield from steering linkage and engine oil pan. Drain crankcase. Remove starter motor.
Remove oil cooler pipes and both front wheels. Disconnect electrical connector and remove wiring harness
bracket at shift cable housing. Remove 3 shift cable housing bolts and disconnect shift cable from differential
carrier. Remove both front drive axles. Remove differential housing. Remove 10 oil pan bolts, 2 nuts at
crankshaft rear oil seal and remove 2 transmission to oil pan bolts. Remove oil pan from vehicle.
I just did this in my 2000 blazer and since i didn't remove the tras the pan went right back on and all is good as far as the pan goes. Removing the front carrier to get that pan off is a pain as the entire front steering had to be removed as well. So if you want my 2c. If your gonna tackle it might as well repair anything that's wrong with the front end also. Such as upper/lower ball joints, cv axles, idler arm, pit-man arm, tie rods. Seeing as you will have all of this disassembled to get the pan off its a perfect time to replace that stuff as well.
Good luck if you tackle this job its a fun one.
Oh and heres the pan tightening sequence if ya need it.
Last edited by swartlkk; 11-14-2010 at 02:51 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the multiquote feature to respond to multiple people rather than posting back to back.
#5
Well after 12 + hours and some coins lighter oil leak is no more.
#6
Congrats it is a big job. Glad you were able to pull it off.
#7
So which approach did you take? It might help others searching for how to attack this problem in the future.
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