Here is the data from the scanner:
MIL STATUS: ON
ABSLT TPS (%): 0.0
ENG SPEED (RPM): 900
CALC LOAD (%): 0.0
MAF (GR/S): 0
MAP (KPA): 35.0
COOLANT (C): 41
IAT (C): -40
IGN ADV (DEG): 17 TO 21
ST FTRM1 (%): 11.7 TO 12.5
LT FTRM1 (%): 4.7
ST FTRM2 (%): 3.1 TO 7.0
LT FTRM2 (%): 7.8
VEH SPEED (KPH): 0
FUEL SYS1: OPEN
FUEL SYS2: OPEN
02S11 (V): .195 TO .785
ST FTRM11 (%): -10.2 TO -12.5
02S13 (V): .560 TO .580
02S21 (V): ,290 - .760
ST FTRM21 (%): 0
PTO STATUS: DISE
OBD2 STAT: CA

 

So there is obviously a fault with the IAT.... it sure was not -40 in the garage!! The MAF sensor also is not reading anything.

On a side note, I just crawled under the vehicle and found a melted wiring harness... The harness that runs over the brake booster and to the t-case was resting on the side of the exhaust. Both twisted pairs in the harness are melted. From bad to worse...

 

Engine must be at operating temperature, with the PCM in closed loop operation.

MAF at zero is a problem, and should have a DTC in memory.
Coolant needs to be ~92C
IAT at -41C is showing your ambient temperature. Is that correct? I doubt it
STFT bank 1 is showing a lean misfire, (too much air and or not enough fuel). In other words, not an ignition misfire, or an injector stuck open.

 

Captain Hook, you are correct the IAT should have been roughly 18C. Will the bank 1 misfire possibly be due to the MAF showing 0? The computer running lean because there is 'no air' going through it?

 

The burnt wires and harness need to be repaired first.

Something you can try after the vehicle sits for at least 8-10 hours, before starting the engine. Connect the scan tool and bring up engine streaming data on the screen. Turn the ignition to the RUN position, do not start the engine, check IAT & ECT, both should be within a degree or two of your ambient temperature. Post all 3 readings.

Key ON, engine OFF, MAF should show zero. At operating temp, engine at idle, in closed loop, it should be ~4.6 grams per second, it will vary slightly.

The MAF affects all cylinders, (both banks) equally. It can not affect only one bank. If there is no air going through it, the engine won't run, (provided it is connected). With ignition ON, engine OFF, MAF unplugged. Measure voltage on the pink wire, should show battery voltage. Measure resistance from black wire with white trace to engine ground, Must be less than 5 ohms. Post your results.

 

Captain Hook, just got home...realized when I got under the hood I forgot to hook up the IAT & MAF sensor wires....stupid mistake. When I did hook them up cold IAT was 16C, ECT was 12C, ambient was 18C. MAF sensor engine off, key on was reading 1.92gr/s; at warm idle 7.80gr/s. Same reading with new MAF. Had 11.7v on pink wire, and a high 26.1 ohms on blk/wh to ground. Where are all the ground locations on this vehicle? Need to do some cleaning and applying some die electric grease.

Dealing with the bank 1 lean condition, if I am correct a sticky poppet(s) could be a likely culprit to this code (considering the history of these with this engine). I did not notice any exhaust leak while I was under the vehicle yesterday.

 

26 ohms is a problem. It's not THE problem, but it is a problem, (both sensors affect all cylinders equally). There are grounds all over the place. The main ones for the engine controls are on the rear of the cylinder heads, (both of them). They are between the heads and the firewall, not fun to get to. There is also a braided body ground cable that runs from the right head to the body, near the heater blower. After repairing the high resistance, compare ECT, IAT & ambient again.

Checking temperature three different ways gives a pretty good "seat of the pants" indication if one or both of them are off. They have to be tested stone cold, when temperatures have stabilized. Both sensors are thermistors and their resistance changes with temperature. As temperature increases, their resistance goes down. High resistance in the ground circuit will make both of them read colder than actual, which they are. High resistance values will cause a richer fuel mixture. The ECT has a greater impact on fuel mixture than the IAT. In a perfect world, all three temps should be identical. In reality, I like to see them no more than two degrees apart. Each sensor has two terminals, one goes to each side of the thermistor. Another test you can try, is unplug the sensors and check the resistance at the sensor itself, again, must be stone cold. This chart indicates what resistance values should be at the corresponding ambient temperature:



Again, these two sensor readings are not what's causing the problem, but the poor ground might be affecting something that is causing the problem.

Sticky poppets could cause a lean, or a rich misfire, depends what the problem is with it.

 

Thanks again for all the info. I have lots of work ahead of me now.....