Hooked up timing light to plug #1 and timing looks right on when cranking engine over

 

Is it a good possibility of a stuck injector? Only reason i ask is because i got engine to somewhat fire decent tonight only after i pulled fuel pump relay and cranked it over for a bit.it cranked great then reinstalled fuel pump relay and tried again fired a few times then locked up and was fitting starter again. I would think that a cylinder or two keeos getting over fueled and hydro locked.i also removed exh connection right after cat to see if cat is plugged. Found decent exhaust out of cat and some black and blue smoke when cranking

 

Mechanical timing is good, (vibration dampener did not slip).


Logical thought concerning hydrolocked with fuel, however, if an injector was stuck open, the fuel pressure leakdown test would have failed. In post #1, it passed.


Your findings do suggest another test though. Remove the fuel pump relay. Make sure the coil, ICM, etc are all connected. Remove the air inlet tube from the air box. Have an assistant attempt to start the engine while you add carb spray to the air inlet tube. YOU are regulating the fuel so you'll need to continuously add carb spray or the engine will stall. Kinda tricky, but you'll get the hang of it

 

Sprayed carb cleaner in intake tube with fuel pump relay removed and cranking engine. Engine fires a few times and then kinda locks up again and hear a knock sound again kinda sounds like its coming from right side of engine

 

I also noticed that after done cranking engine and it starts to fight the starter when you let off the starter a few seconds after the engine will spin over a little bit like the compression is not getting let out of a cylinder. Could this be a stuck valve issue?

 

Wet and dry compression tests, along with a cylinder leakage test, would tell the tale with rings and valves. Removing the rocker arm covers and cranking it over, you could see if the valves are opening and closing correctly. I just have a hard time with any of that because you say it cranks over fine, with no knock, when the ignition is disabled.


If you decide to do the compression tests, and cylinder leakage test, let me know beforehand.

 

What direction would u suggest to go next?

 

Just for grins, try different ignition module. It's only a couple of screws.

 

Ran compression test as found results as fallows
Dry cyl 1=135. 2=125 3=130 4=130 5=140 6=135
Wet cyl 1=145 2=140 3=150 4=150 5=155 6=145

What do you think?

 

Both wet & dry, look great, no problems there.


Three things are necessary to make an engine run: Correct amount of fuel, compression, and spark at the correct time.


Fuel pressure and leakdown are fine, and the injectors are firing. Compression is fine, valve timing is fine. The only thing left is spark at the correct time. That's where the starter fighting the ignition problem comes into the picture.


Remove the spark plugs, disable the ignition coil, remove the fuel pump relay, prop the throttle wide open. When cranking the engine over, you will hear two very different sounds of air pushing out of each spark plug hole. When the piston goes up on the exhaust stroke, you will hear a push of air. When the piston goes up on the compression stroke, you will hear a much more forceful push of air. As the engine is cranking, pay close attention to #1 spark plug hole. You will need to stop cranking the starter just before the stronger push ends. TIP: With the spark plugs removed, when you let off the key, the crankshaft will continue to rotate a few degrees. So it might take a few tries to get your "timing" down right. The objective here is to stop the crank just before #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. You can verify that by the location of the marks on the dampener. You should need to manually rotate the crankshaft just a few degrees clockwise to line up the marks. Yup, you guessed it, pull the distributor cap off and see where the rotor is pointing.