Hey! 97 Jimmy 180K ABS light came on before this issue reared its head(1 day) I know that my wheel sensors are original (poor condition) that is evident! After searching the site-I have still yet to come up with an answer to find my problem! Example: occasional grinding sound and lack of braking at slow speeds which results in NO brakes at all! Thank the Lord the e-brake worked well in the K-mart lot today as this unit would not stop at 10 mph with full pedal pressure! Like I said-I looked over the site and did not see this issue! Info please if you are able! Thanks!

 

Sound like your whole ABS system is shot. It happened on my '95 Chevy S10 Blazer. New ABS system wasn't cheap at all so I went to the junkyard and got a used 4 lines ABS system cheaper. Hope it will help you.

 

Hmmm...I assume you are refering to the complete module on the left side over the wheel well. That IS where the noise is coming from!While it appears to be a fairly simple swap,I am really thinking about parting this unit at this point! I stole it for $1500 w/ 140K and it has been very reliable and looks great and has never failed me,but now there are getting to be too many issues to attend to that even at my cost(dealer-not list price and doing the work myself)I am looking at about $1500 and a weeks time.This is my second Jimmy-first went 250K and this one only180K? The amount of spares and the way the unit looks and drives should bring me my initial $1500 back! I think I am done with these cars,my lady sure is! What say you?

 

I do not agree with this assessment. Low speed activation of the ABS system is an indication of a poor ABS signal from the WSS (wheel speed sensor), not a complete breakdown of the ABS system as a whole.

I am fairly confident that if you were to get the ABS system scanned for codes (before removing the ABS fuse and/or pulling the battery connection), one or both of the front WSS would come back as having an intermittent signal.

Correction of the problem depends on whether you have an early or late model year '97 truck. The early '97s had the WSS integrated into the brake shield and were not really adjustable. On these models, it is possible for metallic brake dust to fill in the notches of the WSS reluctor ring on the CV shaft, causing inaccurate readings from the WSS to the EBCM. The later '97s used hub/bearing assemblies with the WSS integrated in. This style can be adjusted (see the Tech Article DIY Index & look at the top section within that post) and with the reluctor ring in the sealed section of the hub/bearing assembly, it is much less susceptible to contamination.

Both can be tested in the exact same manner since the requirement for an ABS signal did not change. The signal needs to be >250mV-AC or the EBCM (electronic brake control module) will not see a clear signal and think that the brakes have locked up.

As a stop-gap until you can get the problem corrected, you can pull your ABS fuse. The light will be on in the dash, but the system will be deactivated so that it does not interfere with your braking.

 

My investigation has proven the same- a 3/97 car-so on the cusp!I still may sell it: a sweet 84 Ols Delta 88 up the street-trouble is its the 307 Y motor-any experience there?

 

I just typed what the guy at the shop told me. But on the way to work today the light came back on now after installed that 3 months ago. With the problems that returned again on the Blazer I am thinking about start doing work on my Blazer myself. I got the feeling that I got ripped off now. I checked my oil today because I had oil change from him on Friday and it was 3 quarts short . I wasn't a very happy camper today at all.

 

Could be a quick, easy fix if it's brake dust filling in the reluctor ring grooves... Just sayin'.

 

OK! Thank you for the input! Will get on these as soon as I can(would like to do it this weekend but don't think that'll make my lady too happy) Happy Holidays to all on Blazer Forum! Step 66