Howdy everyone. New to the forum. 20+ years, ASE Master.

I have run in to these damn ABS issues w/ GM stuff in the past, and have always had to send customers to Obama Motors to pay $102/hour for something that should be reasonably simple.

This is a '99 4.3 that I've rehabbed in a big way for myself. Body work, mods, new suspension, so on, so forth. New calipers in the rear, pads around, 90% of the brake lines are brand new.

Sure enough went to bleed the brakes - Soft pedal when the truck is off, NO PEDAL when it's running, no pressure when bleeding.

I'm not paying the guys at the local Chevy Dealership $300 just to bleed the damn ABS module. Not happening.

I have extensively read the forum the best I can before posting this. Here are my specific questions that I hope someone can help with:

1) Has anyone bypassed the ABS all together by using a proportioning valve? If so, which specific value?

On this truck there are three hard lines in to the ABS, two soft flex lines out.

2) Any other procedural ideas/experiences on getting around this issue? For crying out loud I just want to bleed the brakes and be done with it.

Thanks a bunch. I appreciate any help.

 

My dad and I successfully deleted the abs system altogether on my '95. We removed the abs unit and attached the lines from the master cylinder to the lines leading to the appropriate wheel. We did have to install a "t". I don't remember about the proportioning valve, it's been a while since we did it. I remember it being pretty straight forward.

Now having said that, so I don't get sued, this will cause your abs to NOT work. (duh) so if you slam on the breaks, the tires will possibly lock up, resulting in an unsafe condition. This may or may not be against your local motor vehicle laws. also, your insurance company might not like it, either.

 

Piece of cake! You've got an air pocket in the ABS unit. DON'T pump the pedal, you'll only make it worse. Remove the master cylinder cover and top off the fluid level. Leave the cover off and gravity bleed each wheel separately, (one at a time) until there are no bubbles coming from the bleeders. A hand vacuum pump may help to get the fluid moving. After you get it moving, it will drip on it's own. Don't let the master cylinder run low, keep it full the entire time. Each wheel may take 10 minutes or so to bleed, be patient. After all wheels are done, have an assistant help you bleed each wheel as you would on a vehicle without ABS. One or two squirts from each bleeder is all it will take on each wheel.

 

Obama motors... cute.....

 

Have had it once with my '91 caprice, as captain hook said, bleed it with a vacuum pump from the wheels and it will be o.k.