Found the blockage. Can't get the orifice tube out. Compressed air won't help and all I got was a piece of the end of the tube. Got the high side port done but it may not matter if I can't fix it. So what now? New evaporator?

 

Keep trying with assorted metal picks? How many psi did ya hit with?

 

Never mind. Fixed it. After using a combination of compressed air, vacuum, a lighter, needlenose pliers, picks, screwdrivers etc with no results except pulling little white pieces out, I ended up getting an orifice tube removal tool. Even though all I was able to do with it was snap the end off the tube, while I originally thought that I had opened another can of worms, I actually just opened the door to resolving the whole issue. I was able to then pull the metal rod out of the tube and put a screw in the hole that the rod left. That gave me a pull point outside the tube to use pliers and a flathead screwdriver to pull it out. It was in there so tight that even that required alot of force and I was afraid of breaking the plastic around the screw. While I suspected pieces left in the tube, that did not matter since I flushed the evap core again with flush followed by compressed air. Nothing unusual found in the drain pan.

The tube was in backwards and caused a blockage. That caused all this. All I was doing when I blew air in the core was pressurizing it. After all that, I added another 2.5oz of oil in the system to make up for the lost oil from the core and some spilled from the accumulator and lines.

After pulling vacuum again down to 29" Hg for 40 minutes and waiting 30 minutes after to check for leaks (there were none), I added 2.5 cans of freon and the pressures were around 25-30 (low) and 150 (high) at 65 degrees. Air was ice cold also. Only problem was that I had to crossthread the bottom pipe on the evap core to fix it. The threads looked pretty messed up and no matter what I was only able to get it on crossthreaded. It would seem to start fine, but when would be hard to turn and would appear a little crooked. However, it is tight and the pipe is secure without leaks even with some threads showing on the pipe. I cannot get any movement when I pull on the pipe. I also put all new O-rings on the parts I removed, so this system is as airtight as can be. For now, it seems that it is fixed for good. (knock on wood)

 

I hope you've fixed it for the long term. I've found that everything I've done on my '98 has needed to be done twice for it to actually stay fixed for any amount of time.

This project seems like it has been a very good learning experience for you. Now you've got the tools and experience to do air conditioning work for yourself in the future.

 

Hopefully. My concern now is that crossthreaded pipe, but not going to replace the evap core unless it becomes an issue. It is airtight. It seemed to fight every attempt to get it right. I even rotated it counterclockwise until I got the start of the threads before starting it by hand, but once I started to tighten it, it appeared crooked. I got it as tight as I could.

Yea I have had to fix things twice and I still saved money on this project. Plus since I still had the tools, I was still able to fix it again. Even fighting the orifice tube it was an easy fix.

I just hope to not have to do this again for a while, but at least the reward is great once I had this repaired.

 

Once again, Thank You all for the help on this project. I don't think I would have been able to take on a project of this scale without the help from the fine people on this forum.

 

Certainly educational following this thread, profitable too! Thanks Computer Nerd BD!! Now I know what to watch for when I do mine, and I know where to get the parts inexpensively. RockAutoParts.com Local suppliers want 600+ for a new compessor, RockAuto can ship me one for 230. No-brainer. Thanks for your effort, enjoy the ~COOL~ cruising this summer!

 

Thanks for posting your project. Which direction is the correct way to install the new tube? Any pics?

 

A "How to" for A/C overhaul

A/C Overhaul/Compressor Replacement How-To - S-10 Forum

 

OffroadNLovinIt: No problem. Amazon also has the parts for around the same price, which is useful if you have Prime. I got my compressor overnight and the other parts in 2 days.

WalkGood: There is an arrow on the tube (didn't see it). The longer part of the tube with the filter mesh points out of the evaporator and toward the condensor. That gives it the most filter area to capture the metallic particles that exit the compressor when it wears and eventually fails.

Burned: Thanks.