You should be able to just change the core in the tube. The problem is with you seeing dye there was a failure in the completeness of your flush job. Pressures look like you still have a blockage, most likely orifice tube. Did you change the line with the muffler?

With the way your loosing gas and dumping new cans in you will do less damage to global warming by just cracking your charge line valve and letting it bleed off overnight. Fix your leaking line. Flush the crap out of it with lot's cans of non-flammable brake cleaner. If you kept the lines from the canned flush stuff the rubber ends will make this easier.

Stick one of the rubber ends on your air compressors gun. Block the bottom of the condenser with some kind of a plug or some plastic wrap and rubber bands. Fill the condenser up with the brake clean put the airgun on the bottom and pulse it. Its called backflush like you would do on a heater core. Then blow it out from the top.

This can work depending on how much metal you have in there. Parallel flow condensers are notoriously hard to flush, not sure but that is most likely what you have. To understand why this is Google "parallel flow condenser images" and "flushing parallel flow condenser".

The evap can be done the same way. Most of the time they are not as craped up because the screen on the orifice tube saves them.
Good luck, your pretty well invested at this point.
In for a penny in for pound.

I know the feeling of having a white whale.

 

Spitty's right. You don't need to replace the entire line from the condenser to the evaporator. All you need to do is replace the high pressure valve in that line. I think it's about $10. Just make sure you have a wrench on the octagonal base of the fitting when you remove it to make sure you don't twist and/or tear the aluminum line.

 

With the high side valve, I can just replace the valve itself? Is it possible the valve broke, released a part into the line and it now blocking the orifice tube causing the high high side pressure? So if that is the case, all I would need to do is have it evac'd, take the line off, replace the orifice tube, replace the valve, reconnect, vac the system and then charge again? Would the accumulator still be viable? I blew everything out with flush solvent and tons of air using the rubber flush can ends connected to the compressor and there were no issues. How much oil would I have to put back into the system?

At this point, the system is still sealed and I hope to keep it that way until I can get the freon recovered. The cap is holding a good seal on the high side port.

Yea I know this car is a white whale, but it is still a good truck and I am glad that everything is simple enough to make most repairs DIY. I don't want to know how bad these repairs would be if it was the Trailblazer (knock on wood) that had the bad compressor.

 

slow down a bit a stuck TX valve will do that and its a bit cheaper than compressor.any case if my air con specialist mate is in @ work tomorrow i will ask him his opinion after all he dose it day in day out.i know he will ask me what the pressure is on the low and high side of the system?

 

Blockage from broken valve is a real stretch.
Yes that entire valve unscrews from the high pipe.
Accumulator should still be OK.
The orifice tube will tell the tail.

If it's clean on the screen it should be a sign that your flush was good. Very possible there was still moisture in the system and the tube iced.

As far as lost oil, I would be blowing smoke if I was to guess at where your at.

 

blazer down under: TX valve?

spitty: I know it is a real stretch, but just a theory. So I got to get a valve from Autozone.

I think I may have another theory. Would putting the orifice tube in backwards cause a blockage? I just got that feeling... Dumb mistake if that is the case but at least that is easily fixable with a new tube. Which way is it supposed to go in? I thought I copied where the previous tube was. If just the tube, no new oil required, right?

The system was under a vacuum for 45 minutes before charging, 30 of those with the pump on. Now I am glad I bought a pump for this so I can fix it again. I may have overspent on this repair in tools, but at least when something went wrong, I still have them to fix it again.

EDIT: I picked up another orifice tube from advance for all of $2 and I ordered the high side valve from the dealer for $8 because Autozone could not get it for a few days. I think it is in backwards so that would be the first issue, but if there is really any debris in there, then I am replacing the tube again at least. How much oil will I lose when the system is evac'd? I realize there may be some left in the compressor and accumulator, but how much will I need to add after I put everything back together?

 

Brother, two weeks ago I was in the same place you are. I really have no idea how much oil gets lost when they suck out the refrigerant. I'm going to have to say ask the guy that's doing it what he thinks. I know on a slow bleed down very little but on a pumped out recovery, don't have a clue.
Facing the firewall the long screened end of the tube should be in your hand with the short pointed end going into the evap.

One more thing, what I understand, the PAG oil also absorbs moisture so a couple of hours with the vacuum running would not be unreasonable.

 

Chevy dealer screwed me on the high side port and sold me a valve core with it even though the new port has a rubber ball and valve in it already. Plus the core costs alot more than the port itself. Now I see where the problem is. The rubber ball on the port on the truck is missing. All I saw was the valve core itself and not the ball. Now I see why it is leaking since that rubber debris that I saw was what was left of the ball because the valve on the truck looked nothing like this new one. Could this rubber debris from the ball be my blockage problem?

 

Na, that rubber is on top of the valve and how would it get sucked into the high side Lots of pressure over there. I think the rubber is just to protect the shrader vale core and maybe a little leak protection like an extra gasket.

 

I think the standard replacement valve always has a valve core with it. I bought a replacement high side port from O'Reilly's for my wife's '00 Blazer and it came with the valve core and the rubber ball.

It may be possible that rubber debris caused a blockage. I don't have any experience with that. When you pull the orifice tube you can check for any debris.