Hello all,
I have a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer with the ZR2 package. It has 156k on it. I recently purchased this vehicle for $500. It needed a new starter to run. I fixed that. It also needs the quarter panels patched ( I have aluminum sheet metal, fiberglass hair body putty, pop rivet gun, rustoleum primer and undercoating, etc.) and new rear leaf srping shackles. I have those as well. BUT THE REAL PROBLEM is the fact that no matter what I try, my brake pedal goes to the floor.

I have replaced the MC. It is properly bench bled. I also replaced the front driver's caliper due to snapping off the bleeder screw. I then went around and replaced all the bleeders to avoid that trouble ever again. I have done the proper bleeding from RR to FL in order. The pedal still went to the floor. I know the pushing the pedal to the floor can ruin seals in MC, so I haven't done that. The pedal is really firm when engine is off, and it stays that way until it is started.

Recently, I found that both lines from MC to ABS unit leaked slightly at the fittings on MC. So I took those lines off, re-flared them to save some $$$ and put them back on. They no longer leak. I cracked both lines at the ABS and gave them a few pumps to remove air from them. I then went a bled all the calipers again, 10 times on each. My pedal still just drops to the floor.

So I went and boughta vacuum bleeder thinking I am not bleeding them enough. I go around, and bleed them all with the vacuum pump. STILL GOES TO THE FLOOR.

My only viable thought/option left is to cycle that ABS somehow. I would love to simply take it to the garage, but I live at the top of a hill that leads right out onto the main road. I am not about to coast down into traffic trying to get this thing to the garage across town. Any help would be appreciated. I'm to the point that I am ready to take off the ABS computer/circuitry and apply 12v to the power wire for the damn pump. My luck I will completely ruin it.

PLEASE HELP ME! AT MY WITS END! I love this vehicle, the motor runs great and the tires are awesome. The woods are calling me. I need your help!
If you have any questions just post them. The ABS light is not on, but when I bought the vehicle the underhood fuse was pulled for the ABS so it was illuminated, I put the fuse back in and pulled it out multiple times trying to figure this out. The brake light has been on since day 1. No check engine light. I ran my OBD scanner, no codes. It's a cheaper one though, it does not do the ABS cycle or I wouldn't have even had to ask for help. Any and all replies are greatly appreciated. This vehicle has so much potential, I just have this one issue in my way. Thanks again.
UPDATE 4/27/2016: I decided that my ABS had to be my problem. I went around to all my local parts stores (NAPA, Advance Auto, Autozone, Carquest, Federated Car Parts) and asked about the Tech II scan tool to cycle the ABS module. None of them had it on hand to lend it to me through a tool loan program. So I went to the closest Chevy dealership to ask them how much it would be. They quoted me 118 dollars, and that's only if I can get it there. It's 14 miles away, and I have no brakes. So that option was out the window.

I decided to entirely remove and bypass my ABS module. I removed all the lines from the ABS module, and took it off. I went and bought a 3 ft piece of 1/4 inch brake line, and 5 compression unions. I also bought one T-shaped compression union, and one 90-degree compression fitting. I then took these fittings and installed them onto the lines from the MC. It was getting dark when I finished installing these lines, so I have to wait to bleed them. This IS going to work, because I triple checked for leaks in all my lines, and it it straight steel lines the whole way from the MC to all 4 calipers. My only issue now is getting them bled, and eliminating the ABS and brake lights on the dash. If nothing else, I have a micro drill bit I will run into the plastic over the cluster and down into the bulb so it no longer can illuminate. Can anyone say redneck work-around?

 

The use of compression fittings on hydraulic brake lines is unsafe, and in most States it is illegal. Think about that when you're going down that long hill. The problem is air in the hydraulic system. If you put it all back together like it should be, and gravity bleed each caliper, the system will work as designed. Pumping the pedal to bleed the brakes on this system, does not remove all of the air, it makes things worse, don't do it.

 

If "redneck work around" is synonymous with stupid idiot death trap then yep, sounds about right! If you drive that vehicle that way you are not only endangering yourself, but your family and mine. Fix it right or don't drive it!

 

Except for the compression couplings, would this work? I`m old school and not a big fan of ABS except for people who cant slow down a vehicle without it. Hlaf the cars I`ve owned didnt have abs. And you can pass inspection in ma. with an ABS light on

 

I don't see why it wouldn't work, no...

But, if the problem is just a little air in the ABS module, it's a ridiculous fix. Bleed 'em like Captain explained and then have someone do the automated bleed for the ABS module and bleed the lines again...

 

I ran into the same thing while trying to diagnose the abs light on my 97. We swapped the abs module in an attempt to fix the light but that did not work. It turned out the abs module in my vehicle was connected directly to the battery via a fuseable link that was corroded.

Anyways that's beside the point; the way we ended up bleeding the module was driving down the gravel road behind the shop and hammering on the brakes which in turned forced the abs on. We went up and down the road a few times then bled each brake at the caliper again. Not the best way to do it but the even the really good scan tool my uncle had wouldn't give us the option to bleed the module.

The brake pedal feels the same in terms of response as before, I do wish it was a little more touchy but that may just be how it is. I'm sure with the tool it would have been a little better but this worked and I spent the entire winter driving in the Rockies with no issues.

 

I figured a true red neck wouldn't need to be told the gravel road fix. I've done that as well, on my access controlled driveway...