Batteries wear out. Unless you can do a true load test on it, you will never truely know.

But a weak battery will not cause the problem you first described.

 

what could be the problem than. I just dont wanna replace it and than that is not the problem.

 

I am chasing a similar problem to yours. But dont just start buying parts hoping to fix it.

It could be a computer issue too. I am still researching it myself.

I would have a load test done on the battery to see if it is bad. You may have 2 different problems going on.

 

what i realize today was, if i try to accelerate quick my battery gauge drops to 11 or 12 when its changing gears other then that it shows 14.

 

get it checked at your local auto parts they could put a ;load on your alternator and battery

 

In an earlier post I explained that my alternator tests good. Still drops out above 4000 rpm.

But I do agree with getting his battery load tested to rule out a weak battery (Even though it wouldnt cause the alternator issues he is having.)

 

i am gonna remove the alternator and take it to autozone to get it test some times next week. im really busy with summer classes and work. my luck i bet my alternator and my battery need to be replaced or something bigger idk. i never had a easy solution for my problems in this truck. hopefully nothing serious.

 

I lost sight of the original problem, yup. Ideally bring the alternator someplace where they could spin it up on the bench and test it. I think they'll find the regulator inside went bad and can't switch fast enough.

 

im with you. the regulator is the problem. on a 2500mile trip to mexico in my buddies 2000 silverado we were maxing it out and asnytime going up a hill it would down shift to about 4500rpms and the gauge would drop to 11v and depending on the rpm i redlined it and it droped to 9 and battery light came on. we ended up geting stranded in michoacan, bad place to be stranded in mexico. took us 2 hours to find a regualtor and 1 hour for the mechanic to sauter it on being we didnt feel like spending $3000 pesos or $275 DOLARS ON A NEW ALT. ps MEXICO ELECTRONICS ARE 2X MORE THEN AMERICA. long story short the regulator was the problem. got a new alternator and it fixed it. also get a new battery while your at it or your guna be stuck someware also. being your running n amp i would get the Optima battery i have its 900cca and 1000a. mines costed $230 but i got ripped off i see them at autozone or O-Riley auto for around $160-$180, just remember to get the RED TOP. fits right in the blazer like a charm.. also comes with a 6 year warrenty and i believe a 2 year free replacment warrenty

 

My voltage gauge on my dash has been not telling me the truth for the last 2-3 years.
It will sometimes stay steady at 14 and drop down to 9 volts randomly on acceleration.

It worried me and drove me crazy. Not saying your dash gauge is like mine.

I wound up getting an inexpensive cigarette voltage reader(7-8 dollars) and watched it
and my gauge. Found out that my volt gauge on my dash was not telling the truth.
I would try this first. It gave me peace of mind to know that the alternator
and battery were really OK.

Never really found out why it jumps around. I just watch the voltage reader that I
put into the cigarette for the correct read.

Its a cheap little gismo that might help you diagnose your problem.
I am still using it 2 years later.

Mark