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Another ABS light thread

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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 04:45 PM
  #31  
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I am calling this one solved, fixed, whatever. I know it was not the power connector solder contact, so it must have been either the relay or the solenoid contacts....more likely the the relay from what I have read elsewhere.

I am just glad not to have those lights on anymore!

Now if only the clear coat had not failed, resulting in cracks all over the hood and roof. Maybe this winter I will sand the clear coat off the hood and roof and then resprayed.
 
Old Jul 6, 2015 | 11:28 AM
  #32  
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Congrats! I started repairing just my solenoids like some other posts suggested. That didn't fix it for me. Then I had the codes read and decided to go in a 2nd time. That fixed it. SO I suggest that all solenoid, power tabs and relay connections get re-soldered while in there the first time, regardless of the fault codes. If one of those solder joints hasn't failed yet, it will sooner or later.
 
Old Jul 9, 2015 | 09:35 AM
  #33  
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Am I the only one who pulls the big main fuse for the ABS on my S10 ? I have driven all my life without ABS I find it kind of gets in my way....
 
Old Jul 10, 2015 | 02:12 PM
  #34  
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You must be the only one....your idea works...I too learned to drive without ABS and could probably be just fine without it as well. I just chose to fix it as I have the time to do so.
 
Old Jul 31, 2015 | 08:17 AM
  #35  
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Has anyone tried thr $50 eBay service? For those of us who don't know soldering .
I guess I could try but they might not take my messed-up core.
 
Old Jul 31, 2015 | 01:34 PM
  #36  
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Tell you what; you take the ABS module off and cut through the seal so that the black plastic cover comes off, send it to me, I will solder the connector pin, relay pins and solenoid pins...everything I did to mine....for FREE. You just have to pay postage both ways.

I am not going to test it nor am I going to re-seal the plastic cover...that is up to you to do. Actually I never re-sealed mine, but I live in a DRY climate. All it takes is some RTV carefully placed around the perimeter.

If you want to do this, let me know.
 
Old Aug 3, 2015 | 07:16 PM
  #37  
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What a deal! Okay, I got the module off with Torx-20. I bought a Torx-10 to open the module, as I saw on a video, but T-10 is too big. What is the right number?
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 07:57 PM
  #38  
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I think it is a T-7 (maybe). I used an Allen wrench that I ground down just a bit to fit tightly.
 
Old Aug 4, 2015 | 07:34 AM
  #39  
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I believe the size is T-8 for those small screws. I had to go get a set of small torx bits from Harbor Freight.

And once the tiny screws are removed, then you have to slice through the seal between the plastic cover and the metal frame. Do this carefullly. Do not use to long a blade as it will contact the circuit board.
The seal is pretty darn tough and will take about 30 minutes of working on it to get through it.
Also do not cut your hand!
 

Last edited by LannyL81; Aug 4, 2015 at 07:37 AM.
Old Aug 4, 2015 | 10:24 AM
  #40  
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Torx -8 for the six screws. Got the cover off but though I stared at the circuit board a long time I couldn't identify anything wrong. Could be my eyes, my brain or the board. Thx for the fix offer Lanny, I sent you a PM.
 

Last edited by puttster; Aug 4, 2015 at 07:14 PM.



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