Battery Light On!!
#1
Hello, ever since i bought my blazer there has been the battery light
flickering on and off. So first i thought it was the battery, i bought a new one and i replaced the terminals. (Side post kind of battery and terminals). But the light still kept on flickering. So I went to the shop to test the battery for problems and it was fine. (Its new of course). Then they tested the alternator for problems, and it came up fine. battery is good alternator is good the belt is tight. I don't know what the problem could be...The guys at the shop said it might be a faulty light or missing a ground. I've searched everywhere for the missing ground and i have found nothing. Question is....
What can be the problem?? Any thing will help the light is annoying.
flickering on and off. So first i thought it was the battery, i bought a new one and i replaced the terminals. (Side post kind of battery and terminals). But the light still kept on flickering. So I went to the shop to test the battery for problems and it was fine. (Its new of course). Then they tested the alternator for problems, and it came up fine. battery is good alternator is good the belt is tight. I don't know what the problem could be...The guys at the shop said it might be a faulty light or missing a ground. I've searched everywhere for the missing ground and i have found nothing. Question is....
What can be the problem?? Any thing will help the light is annoying.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Snow Hill MD
Posts: 733

As you said - Quite possibly a ground issue,but these gauge clusters are known for their unreliability and replacements are not cheap either. Does the amp gauge read 13.7? Is your battery clean and tightly secured? Have you tested the alternator? How is the belt?
See where I'm going?
See where I'm going?
#3
As you said - Quite possibly a ground issue,but these gauge clusters are known for their unreliability and replacements are not cheap either. Does the amp gauge read 13.7? Is your battery clean and tightly secured? Have you tested the alternator? How is the belt?
See where I'm going?
See where I'm going?
might be a cluster problem
I know there suppose to be a ground on the frame and one from the engine to the firewall i think
and when you say flicker you mean flicker or flashing ?
Make a video of the cluster that might help us see how the lights acting up
#4
Ok here is a video of it my bad i recorded it with my cell phone.
video-2011-11-01-21-56-35.mp4 video by elcholitodedurango - Photobucket
video-2011-11-01-21-56-35.mp4 video by elcholitodedurango - Photobucket
HE said he tested the alternator and checked the belt 
might be a cluster problem
I know there suppose to be a ground on the frame and one from the engine to the firewall i think
and when you say flicker you mean flicker or flashing ?
Make a video of the cluster that might help us see how the lights acting up
might be a cluster problem
I know there suppose to be a ground on the frame and one from the engine to the firewall i think
and when you say flicker you mean flicker or flashing ?
Make a video of the cluster that might help us see how the lights acting up
#5
Starting Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wheeling, IL
Posts: 176

Hello Blazer51,
My Battery light use to flicker on and off. Not sure how you tested the alternator?
I was told my alternator was good too. I think the proper way to test it is to take
it out and have it benched tested under load.
When my battery light flickered so did my headlights. It was hardly noticeable unless I had the lights aimed/pointed against something stable. I decided to change the alternator out
anyway. It was only about 8 months old.
All is good now. No more flickering. Not sure how your finances are but get the lifetime warranty on the alternator if you switch it out.
Mark
My Battery light use to flicker on and off. Not sure how you tested the alternator?
I was told my alternator was good too. I think the proper way to test it is to take
it out and have it benched tested under load.
When my battery light flickered so did my headlights. It was hardly noticeable unless I had the lights aimed/pointed against something stable. I decided to change the alternator out
anyway. It was only about 8 months old.
All is good now. No more flickering. Not sure how your finances are but get the lifetime warranty on the alternator if you switch it out.
Mark
#6
The first thing i did to test it was i turned on the blazer and disconnected the battery(took it out). And i replaced it with a dead battery and it charged it completely which i thought was good.
Then i took it in at the shop in which they did various tests and it all came good idk what they did exactly thought.
My Lights don't flicker at all. Checked that out today.
I think it might be a faulty ground or something or the instrument panel that
is going bad.
Then i took it in at the shop in which they did various tests and it all came good idk what they did exactly thought.
My Lights don't flicker at all. Checked that out today.
I think it might be a faulty ground or something or the instrument panel that
is going bad.
Hello Blazer51,
My Battery light use to flicker on and off. Not sure how you tested the alternator?
I was told my alternator was good too. I think the proper way to test it is to take
it out and have it benched tested under load.
When my battery light flickered so did my headlights. It was hardly noticeable unless I had the lights aimed/pointed against something stable. I decided to change the alternator out
anyway. It was only about 8 months old.
All is good now. No more flickering. Not sure how your finances are but get the lifetime warranty on the alternator if you switch it out.
Mark
My Battery light use to flicker on and off. Not sure how you tested the alternator?
I was told my alternator was good too. I think the proper way to test it is to take
it out and have it benched tested under load.
When my battery light flickered so did my headlights. It was hardly noticeable unless I had the lights aimed/pointed against something stable. I decided to change the alternator out
anyway. It was only about 8 months old.
All is good now. No more flickering. Not sure how your finances are but get the lifetime warranty on the alternator if you switch it out.
Mark
#7
Starting Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wheeling, IL
Posts: 176

Hello Blazer51,
Might just be a bad cluster.
My amp and temp gauge work about half the time.
I keep an inexpensive amp gauge(about 8 dollars) at Autozone in my cigarette lighter to watch Voltage and I hook up my scanner if I feel the temperature needs a check.
That's my work around. Plus I have a habit of looking under the hood
at least 3 times a week.
Mark
Might just be a bad cluster.
My amp and temp gauge work about half the time.
I keep an inexpensive amp gauge(about 8 dollars) at Autozone in my cigarette lighter to watch Voltage and I hook up my scanner if I feel the temperature needs a check.
That's my work around. Plus I have a habit of looking under the hood
at least 3 times a week.
Mark
#8
Beginning Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 17

I would check the grounds, Batt - to block, and block to ground. The one for the block to frame is on the back of passanger side cyl. head I believe.
You could also try some voltage drop tests with DMM to check for bad grounds.
You could also try some voltage drop tests with DMM to check for bad grounds.
take a digital volt meter...
set it to 20 volts DC scale...
start the engine and turn on the headlights..
1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts. 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.
2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..
3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..
4. test between the Engine block and the body.. 0.02 volts is expected.
if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...
set it to 20 volts DC scale...
start the engine and turn on the headlights..
1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts. 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.
2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..
3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..
4. test between the Engine block and the body.. 0.02 volts is expected.
if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...
Last edited by MrSluggo; 11-02-2011 at 04:03 PM.
#9
I also have a voltage meter put on my car in a separate gauge and it reads about 13.9 V to 14.0 V im not an expert but i think that's good voltage. Since all accessories and lights take about 12V each. I'll probably go check the temperature here soon it started to snow here.
Hello Blazer51,
Might just be a bad cluster.
My amp and temp gauge work about half the time.
I keep an inexpensive amp gauge(about 8 dollars) at Autozone in my cigarette lighter to watch Voltage and I hook up my scanner if I feel the temperature needs a check.
That's my work around. Plus I have a habit of looking under the hood
at least 3 times a week.
Mark
Might just be a bad cluster.
My amp and temp gauge work about half the time.
I keep an inexpensive amp gauge(about 8 dollars) at Autozone in my cigarette lighter to watch Voltage and I hook up my scanner if I feel the temperature needs a check.
That's my work around. Plus I have a habit of looking under the hood
at least 3 times a week.
Mark
#10
Thanks for the tip bro ill get to it tomorrow hopefully something turns up and i can fix it the battery light just drives me crazy don't like seeing any lights indicating something is wrong if there is nothing you know.
I would check the grounds, Batt - to block, and block to ground. The one for the block to frame is on the back of passanger side cyl. head I believe.
You could also try some voltage drop tests with DMM to check for bad grounds.
You could also try some voltage drop tests with DMM to check for bad grounds.
take a digital volt meter...
set it to 20 volts DC scale...
start the engine and turn on the headlights..
1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts. 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.
2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..
3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..
4. test between the Engine block and the body.. 0.02 volts is expected.
if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...
set it to 20 volts DC scale...
start the engine and turn on the headlights..
1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts. 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.
2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..
3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..
4. test between the Engine block and the body.. 0.02 volts is expected.
if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...
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