Battery light!!
#11
I had that problem after changing my icm with an crappy aftermarket brand
I changed to delco icm and it ran better then it always did
this is why i never use aftermarket products any more
I changed to delco icm and it ran better then it always did
this is why i never use aftermarket products any more
#12
Thank you for the info I sure will check the wires going to the pcm and the ignition. It is just weird how this happened.
Also I forgot to mention that over the last few weeks the truck spits and sputters when cold or damp out when you thromp the gas pedal it responded good only did this while accelerating slow to normal and when colder out or after it rained and was damp outside.As this was occurring I was thinking bad cap and rotor but never got to it.And the sputtering would go away after good and warmed up and didnt always occur either.
Also I forgot to mention that over the last few weeks the truck spits and sputters when cold or damp out when you thromp the gas pedal it responded good only did this while accelerating slow to normal and when colder out or after it rained and was damp outside.As this was occurring I was thinking bad cap and rotor but never got to it.And the sputtering would go away after good and warmed up and didnt always occur either.
One way they would be related is that the coil -susceptible to damp and condensation - arced over to the Positive or ign / fire terminals and damaged the ICM AND/OR the PCM.
So what you hope is that it's the ICM.. if it is, get a new coil, too.
In fact, do an after-dark eyeball test. Look for fireworks under the hood with engine running.
#13
Ok just got back from the zone, took off the ICM they tested it several times to heat it up and all is good with it, so I put it back checked for arch in the dark nothing checked again for spark, there is plenty coming outta the wires.
I am just stumped on this one, I am leaning towards it has to be fuel pump related again,so tomorrow I am going to check the fuel pressure to see how much it is pumping. The guy at the zone said it could be the crank sensor but I was like well shouldnt it throw a code and he agreed with me.
I am just stumped on this one, I am leaning towards it has to be fuel pump related again,so tomorrow I am going to check the fuel pressure to see how much it is pumping. The guy at the zone said it could be the crank sensor but I was like well shouldnt it throw a code and he agreed with me.
#14
Well, that's probably good news.. it's likely a flaky connection somewhere, unbelievable as that may be in a GM!!!
.
Go back and read what I wrote about 'tug test'.. you have no doubt done that several times before.. to find bad cable signal, to find a bad extension cord connection.
It's very viable and feasible and it you just wiggle, dont yank, you wont hurt a thing.
.
Go back and read what I wrote about 'tug test'.. you have no doubt done that several times before.. to find bad cable signal, to find a bad extension cord connection.
It's very viable and feasible and it you just wiggle, dont yank, you wont hurt a thing.
#15
I tried the tug gently pull, nothing. So I tried starter fluid and it started right up only to die right as the fluid burns up which tells me I think at least that there is a fuel problem. I am so pissed right now and there is nothing I can do except wait till the morning to check the fuel pressure.I did use a ac delco fuel pump used the new connectors and everything to a tea and if it is already malfunctioning it is gonna suck.The tank is over half full man oh man I swear if it is time to move on and just sell it or junk it....
Anyone interested in some newer parts? I have lots to sell.....
Anyone interested in some newer parts? I have lots to sell.....
#16
Well I tested the fuel pressure and sure enough it is only getting to 20 psi so so much for ac delco not failing. Anyways off to drop the tank again and send off for a replacement, oh fun fun cant wait to do this job......not!
#17
fun stuff..... Delphis are nice pumps if you wanna try that brand .... its still oem replacement
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