Big problem with timing
#41
09-29-2018, 04:26 PM
White smoke is usually antifreeze burning......
You replaced the LIM gasket when this all started and didn't torque the manifold down right.
I'm sorry and hate to say this but now that maybe you hopefully have figured out how to time it - it's time to start all over and replace the gasket with a new one once again and torque the manifold down right with a torque wrench
You replaced the LIM gasket when this all started and didn't torque the manifold down right.
I'm sorry and hate to say this but now that maybe you hopefully have figured out how to time it - it's time to start all over and replace the gasket with a new one once again and torque the manifold down right with a torque wrench
Last edited by odat; 09-29-2018 at 04:31 PM.
#42
09-29-2018, 11:11 PM
Today I start the car and no white smoke coming now, but the problem now is that the engine light coming on and give me this code p1345 when I delete it and turn off the car then start it again the code come again
#44
10-02-2018, 12:24 AM
There are a lot of different suggestions out there on how to get the #1 cyl.to TDC compression stroke. I just went thru this and tried them all but found the easiest way to do it is take a small piece of tissue and roll it up so you can just push it into the hole with #1 plug removed. Rotate the engine manually and the tissue will pop out when you're on the compression stroke. I was able to rotate the engine (clockwise if you're facing the engine) by putting a 1" socket and ratchet on the alternator bolt and cranking it over. Did it 3 times just to make sure and worked every time. And you can do it by yourself. I have a new belt so it's all pretty tight. Some have said they had to pull on the belt to help it while rotating if it starts to slip. What took the most time was lining up the distributor bottom to mesh with the oil pump shaft so when it rotates it stops on the little 6 stamped on the edge of the dist. I used a white craft pen - same as white out - to mark where the rotor needs to start and where it's supposed to line up with the 6 when it bottoms out. Tons of videos out there on this but it still took me a couple hours to finally get it to mesh the right way.
Last edited by steveduns; 10-02-2018 at 12:34 AM.
#45
10-05-2018, 11:21 PM
Originally Posted by steveduns
There are a lot of different suggestions out there on how to get the #1 cyl.to TDC compression stroke. I just went thru this and tried them all but found the easiest way to do it is take a small piece of tissue and roll it up so you can just push it into the hole with #1 plug removed. Rotate the engine manually and the tissue will pop out when you're on the compression stroke. I was able to rotate the engine (clockwise if you're facing the engine) by putting a 1" socket and ratchet on the alternator bolt and cranking it over. Did it 3 times just to make sure and worked every time. And you can do it by yourself. I have a new belt so it's all pretty tight. Some have said they had to pull on the belt to help it while rotating if it starts to slip. What took the most time was lining up the distributor bottom to mesh with the oil pump shaft so when it rotates it stops on the little 6 stamped on the edge of the dist. I used a white craft pen - same as white out - to mark where the rotor needs to start and where it's supposed to line up with the 6 when it bottoms out. Tons of videos out there on this but it still took me a couple hours to finally get it to mesh the right way.
thank you
steveduns
I'm sorry to disturb you with my lot questions LesMyer
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