Buy an OEM rebuild..same with CV axles...aftermarket replacements just dont hold up.

 

the alts r rebuild... thats what i asked today when i was there

 

Interesting..hrm..

 

sorry bout that...


my idle is right around 500 RPM... as soon as i put it in gear the voltage just drops and doesn't go back up unless i give it power...

 

Have you checked all the ground cables and connections to make sure its all tight?

 

Is that 500RPM in neutral? If so, that seems very low.

 

Kyle mine idles around 600 rpm once its warm. Cold start idle is just under 1k

 

550-650 is the normal warm idle speed. 500 would be low enough to drop alternator output by quite a bit. Maybe "very low" was a poor choice of words.

Here is a plot of alternator output (%) vs. RPM for cold and operating temps:

As you can see, the last 50RPM serves a drop of 10% in output. With a 100A alternator, that is the difference between 20A output at idle and 10A.

But the battery being dead in the morning may be caused by a current draw on the system even after the key is turned off.

 

ya my cold idle is rough 1000RPM little higher or lower depending in the temp outside... but once its warm and in park or neutral it idles right around 500-600 RPM, cuz i checked it out today... yes all my grounds r tight... i'm gonna try and do the big three this weekend

 

i just had to replace my cap and rotor. alot of moisture biult up inside when i opened the box for the new cap there was a piece of paper saying the=at the vent screens should be pulled out due to a faulty design truck starts now but the engine light is still on p0300