THIS WORKED PERFECTLY! Thank you so much!

 

I have tried to use a recharge kit for the refrigerant, but when I do, the pressure will go up into the red and stay there, but immediately drop when the compressor engages. It doesn't seem to matter how much refrigerant is in the system. The system does hold the pressure though, so I don't think there are any leaks.... is it safe to assume the compressor is dying? I made another thread about bushings, and I posted a video of a recent sound that I am 85% sure is coming from my compressor. sounds like a pulley bearing that is dying, but it's loudest right next to the compressor pulley.

edit: I am moving all this week to our first house, so I will have more time to work on this next week. I will try the jumper tonight. I'll try to make a video of what I do. If it's correct, maybe you can use it to explain this later to someone else.

-Jerm

 

Just try and do what he said, mine was doing the same thing and this worked perfect.

 

The system is working correctly! DO NOT jumper anything. The low pressure switch is cutting the compressor out before the pressure gets too low. 1.If the pressure gets too low, air will be pulled into the system when it goes into a vacuum. 2.Refrigerant also cools the compressor valves when it is running. A compressor that is run in a low refrigerant condition is going to fail very soon due to burnt valves. 3. If the refrigerant pressure is too low, any condensation on the evaporator coil will freeze into a solid block of ice.

Do some google searching on how auto AC works. the info is out there. dont do anything else until you educate yourself. Auto AC isnt anything to screw with if you dont know what you are doing.

BTW - from what you have said, Your system is low on refrigerant and yes, there is a leak. The leak isnt very big if it is still under pressure. If you only need to add a pound or two each year then the leak isnt large enough to justify the repair.

If you start bypassing safety switches (Low pressure High Pressure switch) you are basically doing the same thing as disconnecting your oil pressure switch or your temperature sensor. They are there for a reason! YOUR VEHICLE"S and YOUR SAFETY!

 

The AC system is very sensitive to refrigerant charge. If the system is over or under charged by as little as 4 ounces, it will not function properly. Undercharging will cause insufficient cooling, and rapid wear to the compressor clutch. Overcharging will cause insufficient cooling and run the risk of causing permanent damage to the compressor and lines. Merely checking high and low side pressures and cycle times will not indicate the level of charge. To diagnose a problem, the system must be fully charged with the correct amount of R134a and PAG 150 oil. There is no sight glass on these systems, the ONLY way to know how much refrigerant is in the system is to drain, evacuate and recharge it with the proper amount. As mentioned, the switch you are attempting to bypass cycles the compressor clutch. With a properly charged system, the cycling switch turns the compressor clutch on when the accumulator pressure reaches approximately 42psi and shuts it off when pressure drops to approximately 22psi. While the system is running, if low side pressure is not cycling between 42psi and 22psi, there is a problem. Each switch has a purpose, don't bypass them.

 

In my case I didn't have a leak they just didn't recharge my system.

 

If the shop blew the charge when they did the motor swap then it is possible they never fully charged the system. But if they didnt, then there is a leak. Granted, seals are better now days then they were years ago, but you still have rubber hoses, an open design compressor with mechanical seals. These systems WILL leak eventually, its just a matter of when.

 

This worked for me.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...lem-fix-58601/

 

To each his own but I would strongly suggest NOT spraying PB blaster or any other lube on an AC compressor clutch. Except for the bearing, there are no moving parts that need lubrication. Clutches work on friction. If the low or high pressure switches are commanding the clutch off, then lubricating it wont make it stay on. I would try to find the real cause. (If there is actually anything wrong) It might be working the way its designed!