Might want to check the control arm bushings, they like to dry rot. If it needs the bushings, you're better off replacing the entire control arm with the bushings already installed in them. Dorman makes them and prices are reasonable on Amazon & Ebay. They come with ball joints too, but they're cheap quality. If you're doing all 4 joints, I find it easier to completely remove the steering knuckle. Then grind the rivet tops off, pry the joint off the rivets, and pound the rivets out. Don't waste your time trying to drill the rivets out. Use Moog ball joints, they last longer than any other brand. After replacement, check & adjust front chassis ride height, and get an alignment. #3 plug is simple. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from the gear box and swing it out of the way... 5 minutes.

 

ok quick question how do you adjust the ride hight? im new to this side of things lol I just make things go fast haha

 

Vehicle must be on a level surface. Measure from the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt straight down to the ground. Then measure from the lowest inboard point of the steering knuckle to the ground. Subtract the knuckle measurement from the pivot bolt measurement, the result is ride height. Adjust by turning the torsion bar adjusters, (left & right) at the rear torsion bar mounts.





Bounce the front end, (like checking shocks) before and after each adjustment for an accurate reading.

1996 & newer:
4WD (except ZR2) = 4.6” to 5.0” (4.8” is preferred)
4WD ZR2 = 4.6” to 5.2” (4.9” is preferred)

 

Got the code scanned and it's p0442 evaporative emissions leak detected

Oh and also when going from a stop the Rpms kinda jump and the truck shutters it didn't do this when I bought it it has 125k and I bought it with 119k back in June

 

P0442 means the PCM detected a small leak, (.030" or smaller) in the evaporative emission system. As you can imagine, a leak that small can be a challenge to locate. This is one of the most difficult DTC's to diagnose. Possibilities include: Fuel filler cap, fuel filler neck, fuel tank, fuel pump O ring, purge canister, canister purge vent solenoid, cansiter purge solenoid, and all of the vapor lines and connections that connect all that stuff together. Could also be a problem with the fuel tank pressure sensor, or its seal, or the fuel level sensor. Here's a link to the diagnostic flow chart straight from the GM dealer issue shop manual: https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-35144/

 

Idk if it helps but I have 1/4 tank right now and sometimes it'll drop to e and the low fuel light will come on but then it'll jump back to the 1/4. Could this small leak cause this shuttering I'm experiencing?

 

Nope, but the gage might be causing the P0442. When the PCM runs the monitor on the EVAP system, it applies a given amount of vacuum to the tank and seals it off. The PCM "watches" how long it takes for the vacuum to deterioate. If the vacuum deteriorates slowly, P0442 is set, (small leak). If it deteriorates rapidly, P0455 is set, (large leak). The PCM uses data from the fuel level sender and the fuel tank pressure sensor during the tests, so if the level sender is screwy, EVAP DTC's can be set erroneously.

 

ok new news the shutter only happens when its at 160-190 it stops once it gets to 190 maybe something is happening when its in open loop, I mean the shutter may still be there Its just not as noticeable I guess

 

PCM switches to closed loop well before the coolant reaches 190F. Have you checked if ECT and IAT are reading the same temperature after the engine is off for ~10 hours? Need to check it with a scan tool, BEFORE you start the engine.

 

I will try that but it's prob gonna be a couple weeks or so, I wish there was someone on here that lived close to me that could help.