the momentum from the wheels spinning wont knock it off the stands will it? haha...where should i put the stands for this? i usually put the back ones on the rear axle and the fronts on the frame rail (i believe thats what its called lol)

 

Correct on the rear, but on the front you want the stands under the lower control arms as close to the tire and ball joint that you can get but leave an inch or so between the tire and jack stand just to be safe. Setting it out on the control arm best represents the supensions loaded position but at the same time it unloads the weight off the lower balljoint so you can see movement there too. If you dont support under the control arm then the suspension is hanging at its fully extended position and the pivot points are all being bound up and you wont see the play if there is any. Just be sure your helper understands that if the vehicle suddenly jolts or moves they need to slam on the brakes, it shouldnt fall though as long as everything is positioned correctly, ive done it many times.

 

will probably have to get my one mechanic friend to help me, cause they other ones an idiot haha ...i did just buy the syl glide ill do that while im under there. wont be for a few days given the nor easter coming through lol. yea i just took it out for a drive and it made not a sound, even tested it and slammed on the brakes...no noise what so ever, so i couldnt see how it would be the control arm bushings because my friend said id hear a really bad knocking everytime it wouldnt be off and on like it is now

 

when i was doing my tire rotation i took the pins out and put some syl-glide on both (passenger side). bushings looked good. now when i brake i hear it on the drivers side and lightly on the pass side, (only took it out once since). is it possible it has something to do with the axle, i have not noticed leaks or anything but would it be low on grease or something and may cause this?

also the pads look brand new and hardly worn but even on both sides

 

Have you had an alignment lately? If all balljoints are new then you are narrowed down to steering linkage and upper and lower control arm bushings, in my experience upper control arm bushings will make a clunk just as you stop and the vehicle rests or when you let off the brake to start moving again, if its been aligned lately i would bet that you have one or more control arm bushing bolts that arent tight enough and theyre rocking around.

Explain exactly when you are getting the clunk. What speed, is it a single clunk, multiple clunking/clatter, how much braking force does it take to duplicate, does it do it in forward and reverse, Anything else you can think of?
Also you mention its worse when wet? I cant think of anything that would change when wet except control arm bushings because every other pivot point is greased and would repel water.
Its not the abs kicking in for a split second is it? Try pulling the abs fuse and see if it goes away.
Im lost here man, i was talking to a guy yesterday about what sounded like a shifting problem and i was ready to take his transmission apart, when "I" drove the car i found nothing wrong with the transmission and his symptoms were caused by a lazy O2 sensor, what he was describing was totally not the same as i experienced. My point is that its really hard to diagnose things verbally without a real life test drive, if i was near you i would come diagnose it for you for free and i bet it would take less than 20 minutes, theres only about 15 moving parts in the front suspension and youve replaced the 4 most commonly problematic (Balljoints)
This could also be something really silly, like a big rock rolling around up on your skidplate, or your running over train tracks every time you hear it or theres a wrench sliding around under the hood somewhere? ....it happens...trust me...

If i think of anything else to check i'll post it

 

it makes multiple clunks. it only happens around 10 mph or less when braking i start really hearing it and it begins to get louder at lower speeds and stops when i make a full stop. the alignment was done 3 weeks ago about 4 days after upper and lower bjs were replaced. when letting off the brakes, the noise instantly goes away, regardless of speed. i did notice the morning after changing my oil and rotating my tires, ( i have a slow oil leak) so i went to the car wash specifically for the undercarriage wash , after that it got really loud and i heard it for the first time on the drivers side louder than passenger side, also i never hear it in reverse, only moving forward

i have not driven since then but by now it should be fully dried out. i greased all points besides one on each side (i need to get a 90 degree tip to reach it, im not 100% sure what its called lol)

as for a tool stuck somewhere i will have to really look, the only person i could see doing that is my mechanic but hes only left tools inside my car haha. next time i drive it i will have to take out my abs fuse and see if that helps. in the mean time, should i try seeing control arm bolts or sway bar links are tight or would that mess anything up?

 

Hmm, multiple clunks? Do you know how the brake pedal normally feels when the abs kicks in? Is it like that? Can you feel the clunk in the pedal at all? I would definitely try removing the abs fuse to rule that out, kinda sounds like an intermittent low speed abs problem.

 

the feeling when abs kicks in is just like when your sliding on ice and it try braking right? the pulsating that wont let you slam the pedal to the ground.

i would have to give it a try tmr, will it turn the abs light on? if so will i need a scanner to clear it or will putting the fuse back and driving around clear it?

 

Yes it will turn the abs light on but the abs does a self test on startup everytime and the light will go out if everything checks ok, so it should go back off as soon as you put the fuse back in.

 

Yep, in the fuse box under the hood, should be one of the bigger ones, 60 amp i think, theres a diagram under the cover that will show which one it is.