Can someone please help with this crazy problem?.. I searched to no avail in the threads...We inherited a 1998 blazer and the remote start system started on fire and was hastily removed. Relays etc. were pulled and besides the security light, no more problems. Now, a few years later the dash starts freaking out flickering on and off with relay buzzing under the dash. and every warning light flashing.
So I removed the octopus of wires attached to the ignition switch harness which had apparently shorted; installed a new switch and cylinder eliminating the offending spliced harness. When I opened the door all of the warning lights came on!? It started right up but the warning lights were all lit. Every time I started it a different light went off. And the odometer read 000 Kilometers , the park/drive indicators were off. After 5 minutes of driving everything on the dash works. But sometimes when it is turned off the bright light indicator stays on and the battery is dead after sitting for 2 days like that. Could the BCM have fried or reset? There are no codes/check engine light. Driving me nuts!!! At the last minute I found there is now coolant leaking from the pump right onto the crank position sensor, could that cause it?

 

Can anyone PLEASE help with the complex problem I previously listed?
I am new to this site so I am not sure I am even posting in the correct place... Thanks.

 

No easy fix for something like this. You'll need to inspect wiring for short and open circuits. Wires melting together can be a problem, and each one will need to be checked out. Grounds can also be an issue.

 

OK the Captain speaks the truth. No easy fix, but let's look at it from the view of let's handle the obvious first. You need to stop a the liquid conductor from flying around your motor. Something is mechanical that's tossing coolant. It could be a simple hose or a water pump or something in between.
Track that down, get the motor dry then we can work on parasitic draw.

 

coolant on a crank position sensor will not cause parasitic draw... considering that you've had electrical issues involving a remote starter, it is probable that you have shorts under the dash.... i would think you may have toasted the BCM, considering that the odometer reset, and given you live in CA, I'm assuming that you haven't reset the truck to metric.... I know BCM's can be extremely tempermental, especially with RAP (retained accessory power)....

 

The boggling thing is after I drive it for 10 minutes the PDR123 indicators come on and the warning lights go off. I read a few threads about a cold solder; it went normal while driving it, went wacky for a minute but a good thump on top of the dash corrected it! I think I may have cold solder and a cooked BCM. The odometer set itself to kilometers and often reads 0000. It later returns to normal with everything else.. I think all of the remote start/alarm has been removed as the last of it was on the ignition switch/harness I replaced recently. This truck has had a rough life! over 200K miles now. Thanks for all of your help..

 

The problem is not the BCM. The problem is cold, loose or broken solder joints on the IPC circuit board connector. The clue here was the "thump". The IPC connector is just under where you smacked it Remove and disassemble the cluster. Remove the printed circuit board, and use a low wattage soldering iron, not a gun. Reflow the solder joints at the 24 pin connector to the board. Use rosin core solder only, (Radio Shack etc). Use a magnifying glass to inspect the joints on the entire board.
The issues you're describing are all related to the logic module in the IPC. Mileage/kilometers etc is not strored in the BCM.

 

Thanks! I will have to take that dash apart & find that sucker. I will review the thread with the pictures of that process first. Do you have any idea why the dash goes normal after it is driven a few miles? I know the return to normal when thumped is a dead give away for the cold solder but the other part still eludes me. By the way the coolant leak is from the shaft seal of the water pump so that's next up. Easy by comparison though! Have a great day and thanks again!

 

The return to normal could be from vibration while driving, temperature, who knows. I've seen that same scenario several times, once on one of my own Blazers! Driving down the road, and out of the blue, lights and gauges start going berserk. Smack the dash and presto, all fixed til the next time. Could be a mile down the road, could be a couple of weeks. No rhyme or reason to it.