Coolant leaking from the left-rear side of the engine. Help!
#11
12-20-2011, 12:42 AM
So, is this kit you're referring to?
Felpro/Intake Manifold Gasket (MS98002T) | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer 2WD 6 Cylinders W 4.3L SFI | AutoZone.com
#12
12-20-2011, 12:44 AM
So, is this kit you're referring to?
Felpro/Intake Manifold Gasket (MS98002T) | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer 2WD 6 Cylinders W 4.3L SFI | AutoZone.com
#14
12-20-2011, 12:50 AM
Good luck. Also, if it's due, replacing spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor are easy since you basically have it all apart anyway. That's what I did...It only added a few minutes to get the plugs switched out. Took me around 40 hours but it was my first time tearing into an engine.
#15
12-20-2011, 01:00 AM
Good luck. Also, if it's due, replacing spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor are easy since you basically have it all apart anyway. That's what I did...It only added a few minutes to get the plugs switched out. Took me around 40 hours but it was my first time tearing into an engine.
I'll call for help if I face a massive obstruction! Lol
Thanks
#16
12-22-2011, 05:04 AM
Little update!
Took about 6 hours to take them out......:facepalm:
Most confusing parts were fuel line removal and throttle cable removal..Other than that, rest were time consuming anti-stuckparts warfare..Freaking rubber hoses!!!!!!!!
Anyway, pics!
Oh and uhh,,I totally forgot to do something about 'TDC' procedure mentioned in Haynes manual, do I must do that?
Took about 6 hours to take them out......:facepalm:
Most confusing parts were fuel line removal and throttle cable removal..Other than that, rest were time consuming anti-stuckparts warfare..Freaking rubber hoses!!!!!!!!
Anyway, pics!
Oh and uhh,,I totally forgot to do something about 'TDC' procedure mentioned in Haynes manual, do I must do that?
#18
12-22-2011, 05:56 PM
If you're talking about marking the distributor, and you forgot, you need to do this to get the timing correct.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...-timing-24373/
#19
12-23-2011, 03:37 AM
Mmm yes I didn't have any Sharpie, I scratched the firewall to mark the direction of rotor. Everything's been assembled, car fires up just great.
Couple of Qs..
1) Coolant's still leaking, dripping very little with no pattern...Filled up with water only since he's going to take it to the shop and flush out the system tomorrow morning.
At first, I thought lower inletfold bolts weren't tighten at all. So I tried again, and uh....I was right. Some of them were loosen
. I had a torque wrench but did not know the torque spec, I just tighten them as much as I could with ratchet.
Do I need to re-tighten them with correct torque specification? If so, can anyone give me the torque spec? I couldn't find it in any DIYs. Btw, every mating surface was cleaned nicely, gasket was installed correctly.
2) I have an extra grommet....Number on it is 206, looks like PCV valve grommet but I can't figure out where it goes..
Second one's not that important, first one needs to be sorted out..Any tips would be very helpful!
Couple of Qs..
1) Coolant's still leaking, dripping very little with no pattern...Filled up with water only since he's going to take it to the shop and flush out the system tomorrow morning.
At first, I thought lower inletfold bolts weren't tighten at all. So I tried again, and uh....I was right. Some of them were loosen
. I had a torque wrench but did not know the torque spec, I just tighten them as much as I could with ratchet.Do I need to re-tighten them with correct torque specification? If so, can anyone give me the torque spec? I couldn't find it in any DIYs. Btw, every mating surface was cleaned nicely, gasket was installed correctly.
2) I have an extra grommet....Number on it is 206, looks like PCV valve grommet but I can't figure out where it goes..
Second one's not that important, first one needs to be sorted out..Any tips would be very helpful!
#20
12-23-2011, 04:33 AM
. I had a torque wrench but did not know the torque spec, I just tighten them as much as I could with ratchet.
Tighter is not better.. tighter for an intake is disaster!
Just how good a friend is this guy that owns the truck? How good a friend are you?
Write torque specs on your belly with a sharpie if you have to!!!!
I think you're probably screwed! However...If it was me As soon as possible, I'd loosen all LIM bolts to 'free'. Follow specs but add just a little.
2nd stage +2 lb = 9 ft/lb
final stage + 5 lb = 16 ft/lb
Once again that is what I would do. All bets are off as to guaranteeing results but good chance you're screwed anyway so cant hurt.
Use the torque wrench to loosen bolts, if it takes more than 50 foot pounds to break them loose, you MUST discard that gasket and start over. The silicone part may look okay but you probably broke the bead to metal carrier interface and created microscopic lateral cracks in the bead so you're back at the problem with the original design
And it assumes friend isnt going to worry about maybe doing it again in about 100kmiles because the gasket will be deformed out of design spec and the added rtv areas are contaminated, thus more likely to fail.
Bad news is you probably overtightened them more than my suggestion anyway since those are pretty light specs - because of the gasket type. That's why you have seepage.
Added Note - From Alldata:
At first reading that seems far-fetched. Not so if you have the manifold off, gaze down and visualize what is just beneath. Now... my guess that this damage occurs over time with heat / cool cycles pushing the centers of the cylinder banks out, in turn pinching the crank bores # 2 and 3 at the cap face*. Metals, even cast iron, is elastic to some extent.
- And BTW.. if it does that, imagine the lateral shear forces applied to the head gasket interface.
Some people including my own self accuse me of 'over analyzing' almost everything.
But this case illustrates why the DIY mechanic {and even the pro, because - Excuse me!- I aint all that impressed by ASE certs hanging on the wall} Should take at least a break when it comes to this job and restart right at the critical point.
For the DIY, especially the first timer, that means getting some sleep, and then REVIEWING EVERYTHING, before setting the manifold.
* Edited to correct the original premise which was opposite. The LIM bolts are full vertical, meaning the tighter they are, the more they cam the heads outward and lever the bottom end inward. Still, overtighten the bolts affects head gasket, either way.
2nd stage +2 lb = 9 ft/lb
final stage + 5 lb = 16 ft/lb
Once again that is what I would do. All bets are off as to guaranteeing results but good chance you're screwed anyway so cant hurt.
Use the torque wrench to loosen bolts, if it takes more than 50 foot pounds to break them loose, you MUST discard that gasket and start over. The silicone part may look okay but you probably broke the bead to metal carrier interface and created microscopic lateral cracks in the bead so you're back at the problem with the original design
And it assumes friend isnt going to worry about maybe doing it again in about 100kmiles because the gasket will be deformed out of design spec and the added rtv areas are contaminated, thus more likely to fail.
In all manuals, the torque specs given for the lower and upper manifold are in INCH pounds, NOT foot-pounds!!! Mine had a three-step tightening sequence to 89 inch-pounds, then 106 inch-pounds, then 11 foot-pounds (132 inch-pounds). If you try to tighten any of the bolts to 106 FOOT-pounds by mistake, you will damage the gaskets and probably break the bolts off in your heads. BE CAREFUL!!!!!! When tightening the bolts, work in a circular pattern from the inside out moving back and forth across the intake manifold.
Added Note - From Alldata:
Notice: Proper lower intake manifold fastener tightening sequence and torque is critical. Always follow the tightening sequence, and torque the intake manifold bolts using the 3 step method. Failing to do so may distort the crankshaft bearing bore alignment and cause damage to the crankshaft bearings.
- And BTW.. if it does that, imagine the lateral shear forces applied to the head gasket interface.
Some people including my own self accuse me of 'over analyzing' almost everything.
But this case illustrates why the DIY mechanic {and even the pro, because - Excuse me!- I aint all that impressed by ASE certs hanging on the wall} Should take at least a break when it comes to this job and restart right at the critical point.
For the DIY, especially the first timer, that means getting some sleep, and then REVIEWING EVERYTHING, before setting the manifold.
* Edited to correct the original premise which was opposite. The LIM bolts are full vertical, meaning the tighter they are, the more they cam the heads outward and lever the bottom end inward. Still, overtighten the bolts affects head gasket, either way.
Last edited by pettyfog; 12-23-2011 at 08:26 AM.