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Crank, no start when hot, runs fine when cold

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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 11:12 AM
  #21  
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I haven't had a chance to drive for an extended period since changing it out. The engine fired up straight away and the fuel gauge is working now as well. Next week when I drive out of town I will know if the fuel pump solves my problem or not.

I did a full visual inspection of the charcoal canister and it looked great and as earlier stated there was great flow. I haven't gotten any codes regarding the evap at all so that's where some of my confusion comes from. My next fill up will let me know if clearing out he evap solenoid valve fixed that issue.

I'll give an update next week regarding the fuel pump.

Thank you for all of the help.

Troy
 
Old Jun 19, 2020 | 11:59 AM
  #22  
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Did you get good flow through the normally open evap solenoid at rest when you checked it?

George
 
Old Jun 19, 2020 | 03:22 PM
  #23  
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Yeah there was great flow. I didn't test it electrically to see if it operates properly though.

Troy
 
Old Jun 19, 2020 | 03:49 PM
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Then your tank filling should be back to normal and if you don’t get any codes then it should be closing properly to pass the function test

George
 
Old Jan 14, 2021 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tslyks
So the original problem was my vehicle died when it was hot. I was driving around yesterday for around 2.5 hours and it finally started to sputter and died on me. This was the same scenario as last time. I originally thought that the engine was dying when it was hot but I could drive around for 30 mins and it would run fine. As soon as it died I checked the fuel pressure and that was when it was reading approximately 30 PSI. The only thing I have done to the vehicle since it died the first time was cleaned the distributor rotor and cap.

As for the fuel pump I am not sure if it is original. I am the third owner of it. It has 232k km's so it very well could be. I changed the fuel filter a couple of weeks ago and I can't check the sock unless I remove the fuel pump so I have no idea about that. The pressure would hold at 30 PSI when I removed the key so I don't think it is the fuel pressure regulator.

Based on the fuel pressure I got would you suggest it's the fuel pump? My guess is that when the fuel pump gets hot from operation for an extended period of time it starts to fail? I'm not sure why it doesn't completely fail however.

Troy
Hey guys I am having same issues with my 2000 Jimmy also a Canadian cold climate vehicle it dose the exact samething (Troy's) is doing & also when the weathertemp drops past -20's it cranks but won't start with or without block heater plugged in have looked into the coolanttemp sensor thing & all shops /part stores say there's only the one that goes into the head whats the fix ?
 
Old Jan 14, 2021 | 11:43 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jman2016
Hey guys I am having same issues with my 2000 Jimmy also a Canadian cold climate vehicle it dose the exact samething (Troy's) is doing & also when the weathertemp drops past -20's it cranks but won't start with or without block heater plugged in have looked into the coolanttemp sensor thing & all shops /part stores say there's only the one that goes into the head whats the fix ?
Read through the thread. When it won't start determine if its fuel or spark then report back. You can check the ECT value with a scanner that has live data (cold and at operating temP).

George
 
Old Jan 15, 2021 | 02:51 PM
  #27  
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I have replaced the ect already. (Cap rotor plugs & wires fuel pump was replaced just before purchased it 3 yrs ago (napa pump )I am leaningmore towards a spark issue as it just quits like u shut the key off its going to shop on Monday to have the cat converter cut off & change fuel filter . see if that helps

 
Old Jan 15, 2021 | 05:14 PM
  #28  
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Your best bet is to have a fuel pressure gauge and a means to check for spark in the truck and check fuel pressure and spark when it dies. That cuts all of the possibilities in half. The cat and fuel filter are unlikely to be the cause of a sudden death problem.

George
 
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