cylinder 5 misfire, changed plug, changed wire, stumped
#11
My firing order is right, cylinder 1 on the middle on the distributor, cylinder 3 on the front and cylinder 5 on the back. My adapter is a micromechanic adapter. I did the compression test and that seems to be the problem cylinders 1,2,&3 all at 150 psi cylinders 4 & 6 at 145 and cylinder 5 got to 30 psi! I'm going to put a little oil in that cylinder and test again and will let you guys know.
#13
I put oil in cylinder 5 and it got the same reading, from what I read that means it's not the Piston rings. Is that true? If so then what could it be and how could I figure out what exactly is wrong with it? I am only the 3rd owner, when I got it a little over a yr ago it only had 165,xxx on it and I only paid $600 bucks for it. It has 203,xxx on it now but I've tried to take care of it. I've replaced front hubs, lower control arms, upper control arms and some other basic maintenance stuff while I've owned it,and I would get it back on the road asap.
#18
I put oil in cylinder 5 and it got the same reading, from what I read that means it's not the Piston rings. Is that true? If so then what could it be and how could I figure out what exactly is wrong with it? I am only the 3rd owner, when I got it a little over a yr ago it only had 165,xxx on it and I only paid $600 bucks for it. It has 203,xxx on it now but I've tried to take care of it. I've replaced front hubs, lower control arms, upper control arms and some other basic maintenance stuff while I've owned it,and I would get it back on the road asap.
Total cost to put on a couple of rebuilt heads should be around $500 for heads + gaskets + new TTY bolts and oil change if you do it yourself. But first you should finish the diagnosis by pulling the valve cover and watching the valve action to make sure there is not a problem with that. In the end, which valve is leaking is really a moot point - as either requires the same repair in the end. So pressurizing with air is of limited value other than to actually hear the valve leaking.
I believe George is trying to determine if a bad intake gasket (4.3s notorious for this) has leaked coolant into the crankcase. If that had been the case, the engine might take a lot more repairs than expected and would be best to pull it for repairs or replacement. Right George?? Heck, it might be better to pull the engine for head replacement anyways...… certainly can do a better job with Torque To Yield head bolts and an angle gauge when its on an engine stand. No matter what, always use the Felpro rubber/metal intake gaskets when going back together - they are pricey but worth it.
Alternatively you can get a used engine and switch over your intake and exhaust manifolds if there is any difference in them. Irregardless, always replace the intake gaskets. You would need a 2001-2005 Vin W or X engine because of the knock sensor type.
Last edited by LesMyer; 08-29-2019 at 12:44 PM.
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red1127
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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09-08-2018 05:03 PM