Ok it is now working, the security lamp blinked for 10 minutes and then was on, followed the learning procedure and car started.

BUT and a big BUT.

This car has an after market alarmsystem that apparently interact with this passlock system. This alarm also uses the original key remote. So if I lock the car with the key or the button in the door the alarm activates and also kick in the passlock system. So to be able to start I have to unlock with the button on the remote.

It is a local company who makes this alarm system and I will call them on Monday to get some instructions on how to uninstall it or maybe if they have key remotes that can be used instead of the old ones. I do like to keep the central locks from the key.

Any way thank you very much for the assistance

 

what fuse is this? And under hood?

 

UHFB:



George

 

I did some more on the car and was able to remove the alarm system, but it didn't do any difference. Apparently the alarm is triggered by the door locks and nothing else.

My conclusion is that the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver is the one who opens up the passlock and triggered by the remote key.
Is there a way to disable this or in some way simulate the signal it sends out to the BCM.

Or a final dirty solution to hot wire the fuel pump over the ignition positive?

 

Will this method with relays work you think?

https://autosecurity.tripod.com/PASS1.html

 

There are four separate functions and I need clarification on exact problem that we need to solve:

1) The Wireless remote key fob opens and closes the door locks by pressing the appropriate buttons on the remote

2) The Content Theft Deterrent system Is armed and disarmed with the key fob and door lock keys and flashes the horn and lights if a door is forced opened after the system is armed

3) The Vehicle Theft Deterrent system disables the fuel injectors if the ignition switch is activated without the passlock system presenting the correct resistor/voltage value to the BCM

4) The fuel pump gets energized for a few seconds when the ignition switch goes to the run position

Can you clarify the functions that we need to fix or bypass? You mentioned the fuel pump, is there also no fuel pressure with the ignition in the run position? The passlock/BCM/PCM system disabled the fuel injector pulses to prevent the vehicle from starting.

Some of communication between the parts of these systems are analog signals and levels but some are class 2 serial data communication like between the BCM and PCM. Also there are DTC codes for these systems but they are manufacturer specific codes and not available with basic code scanners.

George

 

And this relay solution brings up a fifth function: remote start. Do you also have remote start and is this part of the problem?


George

 

1) It works now but I can live without it

2. It works now and horn beeps after second key fob click, first click locks the car, second click beeps the horns and I guess arms the alarm.
I don't need this part

3) Yes it does that and I want that part disabled.

4) Yes I can hear the fuel pump humming if I have "opened" the passlock with the Open key on the fob.
I want the fuel pump to run no matter waht when ignition is on.

5) I don't have that.

My problem is that one of the key fobs have died, new battery doesn't help but the emergency button works on it if I press that red button on the fob.
And before the second key fobs also dies, I guess it eventually will, I need to fix this and be able to run it without the key fobs. Just using the actual key to unlock the door manually and insert the same key in the ignition and start the car.


Thank you I really appreciate your involvement and I really hope that this could be fixed.

 

That relay system is to defeat the passlock function during a remote start when the ignition cylinder will not be rotated with a key but leave the passlock system active for starting with the key. In that case they can also just permanently replace the passlock resistor between the yellow and ground wires as we have discussed and leave out the relays but the vehicle will be easier to steal. Since you don’t have remote start, you don’t need the relays. They are just a complicated way of presenting the same resistor to the BCM.

The key fobs and the Door locks/arming of the theft alarms has nothing to do with the passlock system and the fuel system and the passlock system has nothing to do with the fuel pump. If the BCM does not detect the proper voltage on the yellow wire then the fuel injectors will be disabled by a class 2 serial data instruction to the PCM. The fuel pump is not involved and the remote/door locks/alarm system are not involved. If the alarm is set with the key fob, it should be disarmed with the key in the door or the remote.

since you have installed the passlock resistor hack, performed the relearn procedure and verified that the security light goes out after key on you should be all set with no further passlock trouble from the ignition switch. Now that does not mean that the BCM, PCM, class 2 data or any of its wiring cannot have a problem or that there cannot be a fuel pump or wiring problem. If the truck still won’t start then I suggest the standard diagnostics procedure to determine why:

1) Do you have adequate Fuel pressure and leak down after key on

2) Do you have spark at the plugs

3) Do you have injector control pulses

Then we go from there.


George

 

Also, so your key fobs are for the OEM remote system or an aftermarket system?

The alarm system that you just removed is the OEM system or an aftermarket system?

everything I described earlier is for the OEM system, any aftermarket add on can disable any part of the vehicle: fuel pump, injectors, starter, ignition/spark. Is that what we are dealing with?


George