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Dead key remote will not open the Security lock

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  #21  
Old 10-04-2021, 11:11 AM
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Well the car runs OK so fuel pump and pressure is perfect. So answer to 1-3 is Yes

The relearn procedure ran as per instructions but it will not run unless I unlock it. The security light went out after that, but not until I turned of the alarm. So my first assumption was that the alarm was involved here. Now with the alarm out it still behaves the same so the alarm didn't have anything to do here.

When it has been off for a while (more than 20 seconds) and I turn on the ignition the Security light is on, if I then try to start it will not start, it can fire up for a second or so but shuts off. Just like it did before I did the resistor hack.

Basically I'm back to square one. I suspect that this has to do with the export configuration here. What I've read this is a "feature" that was on the export cars.
 
  #22  
Old 10-04-2021, 11:20 AM
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The passlock security system and the remote/door alarm function both display their status with the security dash lamp even though, at least in the US version there is no connection between the two functions.

so if you don’t unlock the doors with the key fob first the truck will not start because the fuel injectors are disabled or the fuel pump is disabled? Same question if the doors are unlocked but the passlock/ignition switch/BCM system is not satisfied?


George
 
  #23  
Old 10-04-2021, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
The passlock security system and the remote/door alarm function both display their status with the security dash lamp even though, at least in the US version there is no connection between the two functions.

so if you don’t unlock the doors with the key fob first the truck will not start because the fuel injectors are disabled or the fuel pump is disabled? Same question if the doors are unlocked but the passlock/ignition switch/BCM system is not satisfied?


George
Well if I unlock the doors with the key or button at drivers door or not doesn't do any difference, the security light stays on and car will not start until I press the open button on the key fob.
I guess this is the difference between the US and the Export version.
 
  #24  
Old 10-04-2021, 11:28 AM
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OH, I am afraid that I don’t know anything about those differences. Here is a solution that I believe presents the correct code to the PCM so that the injectors will be enabled. If all your trouble is because the remote is required along with the passlock code to the BCM, then maybe this can bypass all of that for you

.
George
 
  #25  
Old 10-04-2021, 12:14 PM
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Sorry, the link:

https://newrockies.com/passlock-bypass-2/

I am sorry that I cannot help you with the differences between the US and Euro models but some of the analysis and possibly the fix would still be the same:

I don't know why a third party security system was installed and what function that performed since the truck already has a forced entry alarm system and a passlock anti theft system but perhaps it added additional disabled functions such as the fuel pump, starter or ignition. I would still want to verify what gets disabled when it wont run unless the doors are unlocked with the remote. Did the third party system leave something behind that integrated with the existing system? If the injectors are simply disabled like the US version then maybe the solution above will work for you. It appears to present the commands to the PCM that tell the computer to enable the fuel injectors and perhaps then the PCM will ignore all other faults. That is if your problems are all fuel injector related.

The company may know more about your situation than either of us do.


George
 
  #26  
Old 10-04-2021, 12:50 PM
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Thanks for that suggestion, I did ask them about that system a few weeks ago and they replied that their system didn't work with export models.

I don't know why they added that alarm since as you say the car already have it. Probably because the dealer who sold it new didn't know better.
Over here in Sweden we both had GM selling new cars and then a lot of privately imported US cars. Our old 1997 S10 Blazer was only three years old when it came over here.

So I'm basically stuck here.

I have heard about others who have got all the stuff for this from a US car and make it behave like that. I involves all the parts that are involved here moved over to our car. It's easiest if you can find a donor car that have all that stuff so that it is already paired.
I have a friend who is really good on car electrics and electronics, he suggested that you could read the signal from the lock module and simulate that signal fooling the BCM to think it is unlocked.

We'll see, thank you very much for all suggestions and effort, very much appreciated. Thank you!!!

 
  #27  
Old 10-04-2021, 01:16 PM
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The resistor hack already fooled the BCM into thinking that the proper ignition ket has turned the ignition switch. The thing that it appears is to still want to see is that the doors have been unlocked by the remote. I don't know how adventurous you are willing to be or what your skill level is but if this was me I would:

The good news is that the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver is not on the class 2 data buss which means that it comunicates with the BCM with an analog signal level on the orange wire shown. Put a meter or a scope and find out what the resting signal level is on that wire when the doors are locked by the remote and what that level becomes during a remote unlock event. Is it a level change or a pulse and what are the voltage levels. Then we present the unlock signal when you want to start the truck. Easy Peasy.





George

 
  #28  
Old 10-04-2021, 01:22 PM
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If this works then it can be low rent with a switch or button or we can make it automatic with the ignition key function.

Or you remove that module and install a third party remote that presents the same signal.

George
 
  #29  
Old 10-04-2021, 01:26 PM
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... and buy a dozen cheap replacement remotes for the new after market system on ebay and throw them in the kitchen junk drawer. LOL


George
 
  #30  
Old 10-04-2021, 02:30 PM
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Thanks George,

Well I'm not afraid to do stuff with cables :-)

I did convert my '69 Camaro to use a 2001 LS1 engine with all the computer stuff and relays it needed to work end all electronic gauges. Built almost all of the new wiring for it. This was before you could buy complete conversion kits for that combo. I had it done in fall of 2006. When I was done and had it on the street in spring 2007 there started to come conversion kits for that like plug-and-play.

So this would be an easy cake. I have to take it to my friend and borrow his oscilloscope to check that signal.

Thanks for giving me new hope on this

Jan
 


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