Diagnose this slime?
#21
I definitely cannot share Your experience with a loose CV boots nor issues with repaired brake calipers.Call me a lucky guy
As for Your question, grab the boot with a hand and give it a squeeze. You should feel the grease inside. That would tell You whether it has emptied or not. The boots are not fully stuffed - You may compare with the boot on the opposite side. Maybe it's just a clamp then?
In regards to the rubber suspension components - I have been playing a bit with casting the polyurethane parts for my own project (not automotive though). I went across different sets and I can say Axson F38 seem an excellent material for these. It has a pot time of a few minutes (literally You see it curing). Hardens to 70-72 shore D in 72hrs, and is not prone to cracking. If I ever had to replace something, I will take the measurements, 3D print the molding form and enjoy my self-made parts. I expect they should be even better than genuine (polyurethane seems to be the best material for suspension liners). This is going to be my method instead of waiting the delivery time to Poland.
As for Your question, grab the boot with a hand and give it a squeeze. You should feel the grease inside. That would tell You whether it has emptied or not. The boots are not fully stuffed - You may compare with the boot on the opposite side. Maybe it's just a clamp then?
In regards to the rubber suspension components - I have been playing a bit with casting the polyurethane parts for my own project (not automotive though). I went across different sets and I can say Axson F38 seem an excellent material for these. It has a pot time of a few minutes (literally You see it curing). Hardens to 70-72 shore D in 72hrs, and is not prone to cracking. If I ever had to replace something, I will take the measurements, 3D print the molding form and enjoy my self-made parts. I expect they should be even better than genuine (polyurethane seems to be the best material for suspension liners). This is going to be my method instead of waiting the delivery time to Poland.
#22
#23
If the boot seems to be OK I've decided to take another look to the posted picture. I've circled yellow something that looks like a torn.
The green line separates clean surface from the messy part. Another option may be the leaking axle seal and the matter we see is the mix of water and oil. You may check the diff oil level.
#26
When I had a leak of differential fluid it was consisted mostly of clean oil that actually acted to clean up the dirt on the lower control arm. When my inner CV boot slipped off, it looked like dark ball joint grease was splattered everywhere.
If the inner joint is ok with no wear and only in need of more grease, I would recommend replacing the boot. With a $10 tool from NAPA. it is easy to install the correct bands. To disassemble and reassemble the joint only requires snap-ring pliers. The hard/annoying part is having to remove the drive axle first. The kit I used for the boot was from NAPA. It came with a new neoprene boot (i.e more flexible), grease and the two bands you need to clamp the boot in place. I'll be replacing the inner boot on the other side in the spring.
If the inner joint is ok with no wear and only in need of more grease, I would recommend replacing the boot. With a $10 tool from NAPA. it is easy to install the correct bands. To disassemble and reassemble the joint only requires snap-ring pliers. The hard/annoying part is having to remove the drive axle first. The kit I used for the boot was from NAPA. It came with a new neoprene boot (i.e more flexible), grease and the two bands you need to clamp the boot in place. I'll be replacing the inner boot on the other side in the spring.
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