Can anybody give me detailedinstructions on removing a distributor and replaceing with 2005 used distributor.
thanks in advance

 

Here ya go:
[quote]Distributor Replacement

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

NOTE: There are two procedures available to install the distributor.

1. Turn OFF the ignition switch.
2. Remove the engine cover, if equipped.
3. Remove the spark plug wires from the distributor cap
o Twist each spark plug 1/2 turn.
o Pull only on the boot in order to remove the wire from the distributor cap.
4. Remove the electrical connector from the base of the distributor.

5. Remove the two screws that hold the distributor cap to the housing.
6. Discard the screws.
7. Remove the distributor cap from the housing.

8. Use a grease pencil in order to note the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor housing (1).
9. Mark the distributor housing and the intake manifold with a grease pencil.

10. Remove the mounting clamp hold down bolt.

11. Remove the distributor.

12. As the distributor is being removed from the engine, watch the rotor move in a counter-clockwise direction about 42 degrees . This will appear as slightly more than one clock position.
13. Note the position of the rotor segment.
14. Place a second (2) mark on the base of the distributor. This will aid in achieving proper rotor alignment during the distributor installation.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 1
1. If installing a new distributor assembly, place two marks on the new distributor housing in the same location as the two marks on the original housing.
2. Remove the new distributor cap, it necessary.
3. Align the rotor with mark made at location (2).
4. Guide the distributor into the engine.
5. Align the hole in the distributor hold-down base over the mounting hole in the intake manifold.
6. As the distributor is being installed, observe the rotor moving in a clockwise direction about 42 degrees .
7. Once the distributor is completely seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with the mark on the distributor base in location number (1).

o If the rotor segment is not aligned with the number (1) mark, the driven gear teeth and the camshaft have meshed one or more teeth out of alignment.
o In order to correct this condition, remove the distributor and reinstall it.

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

8. Install the distributor mounting clamp bolt. Tighten Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft) .
9. Install the distributor cap.
10. Install two NEW distributor cap screws. Tighten Tighten the screws to 2.4 N.m (21 lb in) .
11. Install the

 

Thanks for advice I see it is same as ALLData. So I pulled the distributor followed instructions from alldata found out 2 month old cap had a crack in it maybe that is what was causing misfire at light load. I was replaceing distributor because the screw holes where the cap bolts to were both
cracked. So some how I screwed up the timing tried to start got backfires etc.Spent hours trying to get the thing to start.

I am taking it into the shop to get them to fix it.
I just wanted to know when you line the marks on the front cover with the crank marks as per alldata procedure 2does that automatically put the # 1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke? Tried that still backfired etc would not run. Also the distributor is from a 2005 S10 blazer I bought at wrecking yard. The cam sensorin the 2005 distributor would be the same as my 1999 4x4 4.3L LS code W and would not cause any problems would it.
Thanks again

 

There are two notches on the crank dampener. If you choose the wrong groove, the engine will be 180* out of time. I have always preferred holding my finger over the #1 spark plug hole while someone turns the crank from underneith. Once your finger gets pushed out by the building pressure under the compression stroke, I look for the mark to come around and line up. I would then note the location of the #1 pin on the inside of the distributor cap. You can't just line it up with the location of the #1 spark plug on the flat layout cap. You have to follow the layout on the top of the cap and mark the distributor body with this location. If you don't know how far the rotor will turn as you drop the distributor down onto the cam gear, you'll have to go by trial and error. You will mostlikely have to rotate the oil pump drive appropriately to line up with the drive end of the distributor.

All of this makes for some very frustrating reassembly... Good luck!

 

Could not get into shop till friday june 29th so gave it another try todayAfter a couple of hours messing with distributor and the oil pump finally got it fired up. Idles nice starts good but still has a miss under load this was present before so I guess it was not the crack in the cap that was causing the miss.. Punch it from around 80 klicks it takes right off lots of power no miss. So what is causing the miss, fuel problem or ignition. New $120 wires, new coil, new plugs. I am looking at map sensor and the ignition module. I guess i will go with trial and error on these parts. I ordered a scanner from ebay but my money order got lost in the mail, Canada post 3 to 5 days to Texas( $11.00) that was like 3 weeks ago now. so do not know if there are any codes. No engine light on.

Thanks for the help.
1999 blazer 4x4 2 door 4.3L Vortec, W

 

I have a 2001 and I am very happy I found this posting on how to change the cap and rotor. Good job on the post.
My question is if anyone recommends using a high performance after market Vs the AC Delco.

Thanks

 

With electronics on these trucks, I have never heard anyone steer away from AC Delco. In fact their spark plugs work quite well. What do you look to gain by using aftermarket?

 

I agree the AC Delco platinum plugs work the best and seem to last longer. I thought a performance cap and rotor may have a heavier gauge conductor and may out last the AC Delco and perhaps perform a little more efficiently.
What is your opinion?

Thanks