My '99 had this problem twice or so before, but it was self-correcting after a day or two. If it's going to be a frequent inconvencience, it's something I'd like to look into, and seeing as I suspect it's a "relatively" simple fix, I don't want to have to go to a shop for it. The driver side window isn't moving up or down. The passanger and rear windows work fine independently, and work fine from the driver-side controls -- the fuse is fine. All that happens when the switch is depressed is a repeating, clicking sound from the switch panel itself. I pulled the switch panel from the door to confirm that no noise is coming from the motor.
Now the question I have is, how can I confirm that the switch is the problem? Or if the problem isn't the switch, should I suspect the motor or something else. Thanks in advance.

-Brian

 

If you have some local Pick-n-Pull yards local, you can grab another window master switch and see if that corrects the issue. Other than that, you would probably have to pull the switch apart to check things out. It is possible that something in the express down (if equiped) has failed.

 

If you have a volt meter, disconnect the connector to the window motor and see if you have 12 volts at the connector when you press the switch. If you do, the switch is operating correctly and it's safe to assume the motor is toast.

 

Thanks for the quick responses. I brought my multimeter out, and although I wasn't sure which wires were specifically for the driver's switch, after some trial and error of prodding at them, I was able to get a reading in both the up and down direction. So I guess the switch itself may not be the problem. swartlkk mentioned the express down feature, which I do have, but I don't imagine there's any way to test the functionality of that without just replacing it, huh? So my options now would be to either replace the motor, or replace the entire switch unit?

 

The express down just keeps the voltage going to the motor after you take the pressure off the switch as a convenience so you don't have to hold the switch the whole time if you want your window all the way down.
It should be an easy test. At the same connector at the window motor, a momentary press on the window button should flash 12 volts and then back to nothing. If you hold the switch for just a little longer and let off, you should see the 12 volts for a few seconds after you let off the switch.

 

Okay, hooked everything back up and did the test you suggested. I was never able to read any voltage after letting go of the switch. Does it make sense that the express down failing would cause the window to not operate at all? And if this is the case, is there a component inside the master unit that can just be replaced, or would I need to replace the whole panel?
Once again, I really appreciate the help.

 

It depends on whether or not your truck is equipped with the express down. Have you noticed that the window will continue to go down after you release the switch in the past? I assume this is an LSvs LT trim level thing. Mine does, but it's an LT. I have no idea if the LS's have it or not.
I think all of this is mute anyway. If you're getting voltage at the connector that feeds the motor, the switch is working and the motor is most likely toasted.

 

Right, that's kind of what I was getting at. I'm pretty confident I have an LS model, but I'm not entirely sure -- I honestly don't know what options separate the two. However, I do know for a fact that it came equipped with express down. Either way, like you said, I can't imagine why that failing would stop the window from working at all. I'm thinking I'll go out tomorrow to check the local scrapyards for a motor. I assumed it was the motor from the beginning, I just wanted to hear, beacause of the clicking, that it would be something simpler. In the mean time, if you or anyone else has any other suggestions I'll be sure to keep my eye out for them.

 

The only other advice I would give is to NOT use a scrapyardmotor. If you're lucky and you get to look at the truck it came out of, you'll have a basic idea of its age and use history, but this is not a job I would want to be redoing in another few months. If the truck is the same year as yours, there's no reason to believe it's any better than the one you're replacing.
Autozone.com shows a rebuilt for $40.99 and a new one for $56.99 (both have lifetime warranties).I've no idea, but I'd guess the scrapyard will charge at least $20 or $25...the $20-$30 more for a known product with a good warranty is well worth the money (to me, anyway).