Ive got a 98 Envoy. Yesterday I was on the way to work and everything was fine. I pull up to work and roll the windows up and all but the driver side rolled up! I was using the master switch to roll the other windows but the driver side did not budge. When I press the button to raise it I can hear a click, sounds like a relay getting contact but I hear no hum of the window motor. All the other switches work fine except for that one. I can roll down/up all windows except driver side. Locks work fine, power mirrors work fine. Any suggestions?

 

Could be the motor, could be a bad connection to the motor... I'm not familiar with the Envoy... is there a separate switch for each window other than the master switch? And does it yield the same results if so? I'd recommend disconnecting the motor and testing it for resistance with a digital multimeter. If you get resistance out of it, check for voltage coming from the electrical connection. But if I had to place money on it, I'd put my money on the motor having gone **** up. You'll need a trim puller to get the trim off of the door, a screwdriver, and a 1/4" drive ratchet, socket (I don't remember what size offhand) and probably an extension. If you're not sure of what to do, the Chilton manual for second generation S10s and Blazers gives a pretty comprehensive how-to. They're somewhere around $25 at your friendly neighborhood auto parts store.

 

Ive got the door panel off, disconnected the harness from the window motor, looks fine. I dont have a multimeter, I tried pushing from the bottom of the window while holding the switch down and it didnt budge. No humming still coming from the motor but I hear the click when I press the button. Is there a way that I can atleast get my window up until I can get a motor for it? and It looks like im going to have to drill the damn thing out. Its riveted in there

edit: I do have other switches on the other doors and they work fine.

 

While I do plan on buying a Fluke DMM in the not-too-distant future, I'm currently using one I bought from Wally World for $30-something, and it's soldiering on just fine. If you have a test light, you can test the connection for current, although I think it's sort of pissing in the wind at this point.. if there was no current, you wouldn't hear the solenoid click. So the motor is probably done for. The other possibility is insufficient voltage and/or current, which might be enough to trigger the solenoid, but insufficient to actuate the motor. But again, you'd need to take a DMM, test for voltage and test for amperage. Which might be a good idea to do before you take the motor out, in the off chance that it is a matter of insufficient current.

 

My dad and myself were messing around with it. The motor after holding the button down became very hot. He starting messing with the spring and it came flying off. If he was 2 inches closer we probably would have been in the ER right now lol. But after taking the spring off, the window works like a champ.. Although im kinda scared to roll it all the way down now lol.