I did not take the screens out of the distributor; however it is an aftermarket all aluminum one that I put in seven yrs ago, do not remember if it even has screens or not.

Agree on the cam retard; my new scanner does provide this so I can check it and adjust.

 

That’s cool, I’ve got one too and installed it years ago when I was chasing a misfire issue. The aluminum ones don’t have the screens and are a huge improvement over the stock plastic distributors

 

What is the story about these screens and the cam retatrd?

 

Its been discussed multiple times on the board going back over the past 20 years or so., Just do a search and you’ll find threads discussing it.

 

The Latest:
Spent a couple of hours trying to get the steering coupler onto the steering box....it just will not go on. I have had this off before and back on....but something is keeping the coupler from going on. I have checked the splines on both sides, all look fine. The steering shaft moves in/out with a little effort, do not think that is the problem. Have tried many ways to persuade coupler, but so far no-go.
I did go ahead and put the right-side axle together so I could have some progress. Also removed the diff's fill plug, put a new vinyl hose in the diff, routed it up, ready to add gear lube. Will need to look-up how much the diff takes, and install the CV axles prior.

Back to the steering coupler......................

 

Its always a good excuse to ditch it and upgrade to a universal coupler

 

Well....have to admit a "duh" moment....or perhaps a "duh" hour..... In my mind I had the flat spot on the coupler in a different position than it actually was. So it was simply a matter of moving the steering linkage a bit to actually align the flat spots up....and gee....it went on with only a few taps of the hammer.

Oh well......such is life.

 

That steering coupler!....in trying to get it to go onto the steering box incorrectly, I rotated the steering wheel....I thought....so I rotated it back.....which actually turned-out to be incorrect. I thought I had better check so I connected the outer tie rod ends to the spindles, slowly rotated the steering wheel to the left until lock, then back to center and then slowly to the right....until I felt resistance....which was not the spindle hitting the stop, it was the clock spring end of travel. I learned about clock springs several years ago...the hard, expensive way, on another vehicle of mine. Good thing that memory is still there.
So back to center, unbolt the steering coupler (again) rotate steering wheel one turn to the left and then reconnect the steering coupler. I then removed the air bag, just to make sure the clock spring wires were okay. All seems okay, have not connected the battery yet.

Popped-off the outer tie rod ends (again), got busy getting the CV axles in place. I had already separated the upper ball joints and was hoping that I could slide the spindle end of the CV axle in first, then be able to push the CV into the diff...nope....just not enough space...no matter how I twisted or turned the CV axle or spindle. Ok....separate the lower ball joint.....but I do not have a fork...so I removed the hub instead....then put everything back together.
On to the right side;
Had more room on the right side and was able to get the CV axle through the spindle and then into the axle tube. Put everything back together on this side.

Poured 1 1/3 quarts of 80W-90 into the front diff and it still wants more, have to go get some.
Poured a gal of coolant into radiator..not quite full, but will top it off later.
Thought I might as well put the anti-sway bar back on. Bolted-up it up to the frame and then discovered that I had it on backwards....figures....50/50 chance and I got it backwards. Teach me to look first!!! Anyways it is sort of on, not able to bolt-up the drop links until I get Blazer off of jackstands.

Almost ready for the road test.

Later,

 

Put the front tires/wheel on and brought Blazer back to the ground. Filled-up the front diff, put the plug in, bolted-up the anti-sway bar. Got the radiator fan shroud, fan on, put battery in.....time to start the engine.

Replaced the fuel pump relay, cycled the ignition key three times to get fuel pressure up, then to START....engine fired right-up...although hearing something not right....quickly went to the front to find transmission fluid pouring out!

Of course shut engine off and began removing fan shroud, also removed the fan so I could get the lower shroud out.

Found the lower transmission line connection into the radiator was loose. Appears that when I put the wire bail/clip on, I bent the bottom/back end of it, the part I could not see, although the line did not pull-out, it was far from sealing...have about a quart of trans fluid on the garage floor to clean-up. What a mess!!!

After mopping-up fluid for a hour or so, I replaced the wire bail/clip...used a mirror to check that all three tabs were in place. Started engine and all is good there. Have to get some trans fluid now along with more garage floor cleaning.

 

It's a sad day for garage floors!!! In all honesty tho, if I had a garage in would be the same way! Who cares about the trans fluid, the damn floor is dirty!!

I need to move....

I followed this from the beginning, and I love how you write your threads lol. It makes me feel like im reading an interesting book(I dont read anything other then BF threads....) lol... hoping everything is good! I just had a bearing or rod go in mine, sent to my mechanic to do as I dont have tools or location...