Happy Holiday first and foremost.

So 0 degrees here in Wisconsin last night, and I just lost my brakes at a stop sign 4 miles from home. Just had enough to stop, limped her home.

I added fluid to an empty res right when I got home, and let her be. This morning I could see some fluid under the pass front side. Dug in and the flex line near the metal fitting it gashed open. Looks like just that segment can be replaced. It appears to be an unusual fitting, can someone advise on the exact type of flare wrench gets used there (I attached an image)?



Also I had no ABS light come on, just the brake light as I attempted to use the ebrake when troubleshooting on the road/go. Can I just gravity bleed then bleed and be okay, as the MC ran dry?

Thanks for any help, would ideally just buy that wrench if need be? However the new hose/line has what appears to be just a clip.

 

Looking at it again, is that just a clip that pops off? I just do not want to damage the hard line. Thanks for any tips or help anyone can provide.

 

PDouce with PB Blaster and wait 5 min. Pop the clip off and use TWO LINE wrenches.

 

The red brake light on the dash comes on only if there is a hydraulic failure or the parking brake is applied. The amber ABS warning light is strictly for the ABS.

There are two seperate hydraulic systems on your vehicle: one controls both fronts and the other controls both rears. When the front system failed, the centering valve shut off the front hydraulic system, leaving you with rear brakes only, (that's why the brake pedal went down). After replacing the flex line, gravity bleed at each front caliper. If the master ran dry you will need a scan tool capable of initiating the automated bleed, after the gravity bleed. Then you'll need to bleed both fronts by holding pressure on the pedal and opening the bleeder, (same as bleeding a non-ABS vehicle). No need to do anything with the rears.

During the automated bleed the scan tool operates all solenoids in the ABS unit and expels any trapped air into the steel lines. That's why they need to be bled again after the automated bleed.

 

Thanks guys, was out of town for XMAS and all parts stores were closed yesterday.

I only have one set of line/flare wrenches, does anyone know the sizes on both? 10mm?

Thanks and have a good New Year!

 

Not sure if the metal flare fitting is 10mm or 5/16"; use a wire brush on the fitting first if you can to remove some surface rust in order for the wrench to get a better grip.

As far as the flex line fitting....just use some vise grips or locking pliers on the fitting...its going to be replaced anyways, so no worry about not damaging the fitting on it.

Gravity bleeding is the way to go on these Blazers...slow but works. Actually last time I did brakes...gravity bleeding was the only way I could get the air out...using the up/down on the pedal and open/close on the bleeder...did not work very well.

Not going to be fun doing this a 0 degrees....hope you have a garage...or at least a propane heater and a tarp.

Good luck.

 

Keep air out of the ABS unit. I accidently ran the resiviour dry and panic set in because its 75 bux to get the high end scan tool hooked up. As a last ditch attempt I went down to the caliper and vigorously forced the pad back. Whew it worked and all the air blew back. I wouldnt advise if the air is below the ABS unit!

 

a pair of vise grips usually works great if you dont have the right size. i think they are standards, like a 1/2 inch.

also done be alarmed when you get a new line its probably going to have a fitting that will take a 3/8ths wrench