fuel pump cuts out, then won't run
#1
fuel pump cuts out, then won't run
2001 Blazer LT. Was driving on the highway a couple weeks ago, engine suddenly died. Wouldn't restart snd I noticed there was no fuel pump noise when turning on the key. Had it towed home, left it sit for a little while, turned the key, pump ran and it started. Turned it on/off a couple times, about the third try, it wouldn't start again-no pump noise.
figured it was the fuel pump, but decide to let the car sit while I decide to replace the pump to just get a newer car (235K on this one).
Anyway, I tried it again today. Pump ran, started a couple times, and then cut out while I had it running in the driveway. Now I'm back to no fuel pump running when I turn on the key.
Is this a fuel pump problem and it needs to be replaced? (was replaced about 5-6 years ago-dealer). Or is there a way to test the pump by 'jumpering' the power circuit? Anything else that would cause the pump to cut out-usually electric motors don't act that way.
Any help appreciated. I don't think dropping the tank to replace the pump is going to be viable. I tried loosening one of the straps and it appears the retaining nut inside the frame member broke loose because the bolt spins freely now...
figured it was the fuel pump, but decide to let the car sit while I decide to replace the pump to just get a newer car (235K on this one).
Anyway, I tried it again today. Pump ran, started a couple times, and then cut out while I had it running in the driveway. Now I'm back to no fuel pump running when I turn on the key.
Is this a fuel pump problem and it needs to be replaced? (was replaced about 5-6 years ago-dealer). Or is there a way to test the pump by 'jumpering' the power circuit? Anything else that would cause the pump to cut out-usually electric motors don't act that way.
Any help appreciated. I don't think dropping the tank to replace the pump is going to be viable. I tried loosening one of the straps and it appears the retaining nut inside the frame member broke loose because the bolt spins freely now...
#2
fuel pump problem-update
Found a wiring diagram that seems to indicate that relay point 87 on the fuel pump relay under the hood is a direct run to the pump. Pulled the relay and jumpered that point to the B+ bus, pump didn't run. I put an ohm meter on it and I get a very high resistance reading, but not 'open', so it appears I have some continuity.
I've seen a couple posts about bad ground-there is supposed to be a common ground somewhere in the back near the pump. Can anyone describe where I might find it?
Lastly, has anyone tried cutting a hole on the body floorpan above the pump to get to it? Short of lifting the body, this seems to be my only choice if I want to replace this pump.
I've seen a couple posts about bad ground-there is supposed to be a common ground somewhere in the back near the pump. Can anyone describe where I might find it?
Lastly, has anyone tried cutting a hole on the body floorpan above the pump to get to it? Short of lifting the body, this seems to be my only choice if I want to replace this pump.
#3
1998 and newer has a pump prime terminal in the underhood fuse panel that goes directly to the fuel pump motor.
Applying battery voltage should activate the fuel pump continuously. The ground for the fuel pump goes through a splice pack, (4 or 5 wires) behind the rear bumper. From there it goes to chassis ground located on top of the frame, left rear corner.
Applying battery voltage should activate the fuel pump continuously. The ground for the fuel pump goes through a splice pack, (4 or 5 wires) behind the rear bumper. From there it goes to chassis ground located on top of the frame, left rear corner.
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