Fuel Pump to Fuel Line disconnect
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 7

I need to know the best (easiest) way to disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump. I believe a tool is needed, but do not have such a tool (yet). I've tried using plastic shims to get the inner locks to release, but unsuccessfully. Anyone know of a "trick" or workaround to get the lines off?
Thanks
[IMG]local://upfiles/13052/1BD21E170E7E441B81072BA05B1F1532.jpg[/IMG]
Thanks
[IMG]local://upfiles/13052/1BD21E170E7E441B81072BA05B1F1532.jpg[/IMG]
#2
Quick disconnect tools can make short work of these connections, but it can be done with a pair of small flat blade screw drivers. You just have to understand how the quick disconnect fittings work. If I were you, I would get a set of the quick disconnect tools. There are two basic types (I know there are more), ones that are hinged and have two sizes per tool and then there are the plastic ones which are just slotted and can be opened up and slid over the line. The plastic ones typically require more space to use than the pot-metal hinged ones.
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 7

I went and bought the fuel line tool, but it won't fit around the "nipple" on the fuel pump*. The plastic between the "nipples" doesn't allow the tool to close completely. So I'm back to ground zero. I've looked from every direction possible and I can't find another way to disconnect the lines. The small screwdriver trick doesn't appear to be doable either due to the space around the "nipple".
* See the picture in my previous post.
I'm stumped.
* See the picture in my previous post.
I'm stumped.
#4
They do come loose, but many people have felt your pain.
Which type of tool did you buy? I have a modified a set of the hinged type to use for situations like this. You only need to have the round protrusion go in where the windows are in the sides of the outer plastic piece. The clips which hold the connection are only at the windows (openings).
Also, the hoses can be rotated slightly to either side to get better access to the windows.
Which type of tool did you buy? I have a modified a set of the hinged type to use for situations like this. You only need to have the round protrusion go in where the windows are in the sides of the outer plastic piece. The clips which hold the connection are only at the windows (openings).
Also, the hoses can be rotated slightly to either side to get better access to the windows.
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 471

I would try nd release the two outside clips first and then the center one can be strategically squeezed with a pair of needle nosed pliers-as there is no clip in the center hose-it's attached in a different manner. As Kyle said-we all feel your pain but they can be done with either a couple of flat bladed screwdrivers or I've also used needle nosed pliers. Are you replacing the pump assby? If so you could cut the lines at the pump get the tank out of there and get a close up and personal view of the lines. Make sure you cut the lines that are on the pump as you are replacing these but not the black lines-the white ones need the cut! Then you'll be able to see the white clip in the black hose and see how it's done. Push the white tabs in to release the line that you cut(or not). good luck Jerry
#6
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location:
Posts: 68

I don't have any trouble with space anymore after doing it a few times. First, drop the spare tire. Then put a floor jack (and a plank for steadiness) under the rear of the tank and remove the rear tank strap. Take the fuel filler neck loose from the tank. Now you can drop the rear of the tank down and literally see the quick connects. I just use needle nose pliers since it's easy to reach from there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
billyfromhill
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
2
09-29-2014 05:38 PM
artistsblock
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
4
04-27-2012 12:31 PM
95jblaze
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
5
08-27-2011 03:46 PM








