Fuel Pump Took a Dump? D:
#11
Alright, so it was basically a matter of time at 105k miles that my fuel pump would go?
ALSO, would it be sane to cut a hole/make a hatch so I can access my fuel pump from the top? It'd make life so much easier if I didn't have to drop the tank at all.
ALSO, would it be sane to cut a hole/make a hatch so I can access my fuel pump from the top? It'd make life so much easier if I didn't have to drop the tank at all.
Last edited by BigEffingHammer; 07-05-2012 at 10:43 PM.
#12
pumps good for just 100k? man i got lucky then...my blazer has over 200k and i just did the pump last year. the other pump was original. sweet.
anyways, You could,but then you have to worry about fuel vapors etc in the cab,there shouldnt be any but thats always just another problem.
heres the cheapest pumps ive found thus far for ya. is yours a 2 or 4 door?
2 door 189.99:
4 door 234.96 :
not sure why a 2 and 4 door makes a difference,but it does apparently.
So there ya go.
anyways, You could,but then you have to worry about fuel vapors etc in the cab,there shouldnt be any but thats always just another problem.
heres the cheapest pumps ive found thus far for ya. is yours a 2 or 4 door?
2 door 189.99:
4 door 234.96 :
not sure why a 2 and 4 door makes a difference,but it does apparently.
So there ya go.
#13
This is were a body lift becomes practical...those extra 2 inches give you so much room.
i will never own another ride without one on it.
I barely have to drop the tank at all.
As far as a hatch...it has been brought up around here before. I would think that if you used a larger peice of steel afterward with maybe an asphalt layer on it..think roofing ice shield...that would help seal it or maybe rubber. Then figure a way to fasten it. Problem is if you cut those gas lines....you have a way bigger problem on your hands.
i will never own another ride without one on it.
I barely have to drop the tank at all.
As far as a hatch...it has been brought up around here before. I would think that if you used a larger peice of steel afterward with maybe an asphalt layer on it..think roofing ice shield...that would help seal it or maybe rubber. Then figure a way to fasten it. Problem is if you cut those gas lines....you have a way bigger problem on your hands.
#14
There are members here on the forum that have cut an access hole. Problem is, the hole needs to be considerably larger than the module in order to twist, turn, and snake the old one out and the new one in without damaging the fuel level sender, float, and arm. To drop the tank is no big deal, probably less time than calculating where to cut the hole and actually doing it. With the S10 pick up, you can remove the box, just takes more people to do the job
2 door tank is aft axle, 4 door tank is midship inside the frame rail. Totally different tank configurations, that's why the modules are different.
2 door tank is aft axle, 4 door tank is midship inside the frame rail. Totally different tank configurations, that's why the modules are different.
#16
anyways, You could,but then you have to worry about fuel vapors etc in the cab,there shouldnt be any but thats always just another problem. Well, hopefully I'd be able to seal it off well enough.
4 door 234.96 :
Amazon.com: ACDelco MU1733 Fuel Tank and Pump Module Kit: Automotive
Mine is a 4 door, and I'm amazed at the price here. My one question is it doesn't look at all like the Delphi/AC Delco pumps that I've seen online at O'Reilly's or Carquest.
CARQUEST - Product Information: CQ/DELPHI ELECTRIC ASSEMBLIES
Delphi Automotive FG0052 - Fuel Pump Module Assembly | O'Reilly Auto Parts
I suppose it does look like the second one, but not the first.
I just want to make sure that it's 100% legitimate.
4 door 234.96 :
Amazon.com: ACDelco MU1733 Fuel Tank and Pump Module Kit: Automotive
Mine is a 4 door, and I'm amazed at the price here. My one question is it doesn't look at all like the Delphi/AC Delco pumps that I've seen online at O'Reilly's or Carquest.
CARQUEST - Product Information: CQ/DELPHI ELECTRIC ASSEMBLIES
Delphi Automotive FG0052 - Fuel Pump Module Assembly | O'Reilly Auto Parts
I suppose it does look like the second one, but not the first.
I just want to make sure that it's 100% legitimate.
This is were a body lift becomes practical...those extra 2 inches give you so much room.
i will never own another ride without one on it.
I barely have to drop the tank at all.
As far as a hatch...it has been brought up around here before. I would think that if you used a larger peice of steel afterward with maybe an asphalt layer on it..think roofing ice shield...that would help seal it or maybe rubber. Then figure a way to fasten it. Problem is if you cut those gas lines....you have a way bigger problem on your hands.As long as I am very precise and careful when cutting, it should turn out alright. And hell, I may as well get a body lift while I'm doing this since my Blazer is a lawn ornament at the moment.
i will never own another ride without one on it.
I barely have to drop the tank at all.
As far as a hatch...it has been brought up around here before. I would think that if you used a larger peice of steel afterward with maybe an asphalt layer on it..think roofing ice shield...that would help seal it or maybe rubber. Then figure a way to fasten it. Problem is if you cut those gas lines....you have a way bigger problem on your hands.As long as I am very precise and careful when cutting, it should turn out alright. And hell, I may as well get a body lift while I'm doing this since my Blazer is a lawn ornament at the moment.
There are members here on the forum that have cut an access hole. Problem is, the hole needs to be considerably larger than the module in order to twist, turn, and snake the old one out and the new one in without damaging the fuel level sender, float, and arm. To drop the tank is no big deal, probably less time than calculating where to cut the hole and actually doing it. With the S10 pick up, you can remove the box, just takes more people to do the job How big of a hole are we talking? :O
#18
Welp, got her runnin' again...
Bought the OE fuel pump from Amazon for $235, put her in, and she runs great. Still have to put in the new OE filter which I bought online for just over $15. (I've only driven in a circle for about 20 minutes because I missed driving her)
I cut a hole in my floor just behind the rear bench seat. I stole somebody's idea and put wet carpet between the sheet metal and the gas tank. Then I used a mixture of a sawzall, angle grinder, and a hammer and punch, to cut a 4 inch by 8 inch flap, then folded it up. I've yet to finish sealing it but I plan on bending it back down then putting a piece of sheet metal over it and tack welding it down. Then I'll blackjack around that larger piece of sheet metal to hopefully seal any road noise and fumes out of the cab. In theory, sounds like it'll work great. I didn't care about the carpet I ripped up because I am going to bedliner the back anyway.
I had to go under the Blazer to knock the "O" ring lose, then I just pulled the pump up through the floor after unhooking everything. Overall, sounded easier than dropping the tank especially considering I had about a quarter tank in there.
Couple things now relating to this pump:
The strainer... Is there an internal strainer? Or do I have to purchase one as well? If it doesn't have an internal strainer, hopefully I didn't damage anything running her for 20 minutes without one...
The wiring... Stock 4 pin harness is in a square, new pump's 4 pins was in a line. Came with a new harness so instead of chopping any wires, I took apart the old pump, and attached the wires running from after the pump's harness to the new wiring harness. So I still just used the Blazer's stock harness, attached to the stock fuel pump harness, attached to the new harness.
Hopefully that's not too confusing, but does it sound like that's alright?
The locking "O" ring... I didn't replace it, it was a b*tch to get off and back on. I suppose I probably could of lubed it up or something for the sake of getting it back on, but since I did this alone and have never replaced a pump before, I was scared of getting anything in the fuel tank. So my question is, should I replace it at all?
Welp, that about does 'er.
Thanks so much for all the help guys.
-Keenan
Bought the OE fuel pump from Amazon for $235, put her in, and she runs great. Still have to put in the new OE filter which I bought online for just over $15. (I've only driven in a circle for about 20 minutes because I missed driving her)
I cut a hole in my floor just behind the rear bench seat. I stole somebody's idea and put wet carpet between the sheet metal and the gas tank. Then I used a mixture of a sawzall, angle grinder, and a hammer and punch, to cut a 4 inch by 8 inch flap, then folded it up. I've yet to finish sealing it but I plan on bending it back down then putting a piece of sheet metal over it and tack welding it down. Then I'll blackjack around that larger piece of sheet metal to hopefully seal any road noise and fumes out of the cab. In theory, sounds like it'll work great. I didn't care about the carpet I ripped up because I am going to bedliner the back anyway.
I had to go under the Blazer to knock the "O" ring lose, then I just pulled the pump up through the floor after unhooking everything. Overall, sounded easier than dropping the tank especially considering I had about a quarter tank in there.
Couple things now relating to this pump:
The strainer... Is there an internal strainer? Or do I have to purchase one as well? If it doesn't have an internal strainer, hopefully I didn't damage anything running her for 20 minutes without one...
The wiring... Stock 4 pin harness is in a square, new pump's 4 pins was in a line. Came with a new harness so instead of chopping any wires, I took apart the old pump, and attached the wires running from after the pump's harness to the new wiring harness. So I still just used the Blazer's stock harness, attached to the stock fuel pump harness, attached to the new harness.
Hopefully that's not too confusing, but does it sound like that's alright?
The locking "O" ring... I didn't replace it, it was a b*tch to get off and back on. I suppose I probably could of lubed it up or something for the sake of getting it back on, but since I did this alone and have never replaced a pump before, I was scared of getting anything in the fuel tank. So my question is, should I replace it at all?
Welp, that about does 'er.
Thanks so much for all the help guys.
-Keenan
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