2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

Fuel Pump Took a Dump? D:

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 07-05-2012, 10:33 PM
BigEffingHammer's Avatar
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 144
BigEffingHammer is on a distinguished road
Default

Alright, so it was basically a matter of time at 105k miles that my fuel pump would go?


ALSO, would it be sane to cut a hole/make a hatch so I can access my fuel pump from the top? It'd make life so much easier if I didn't have to drop the tank at all.
 

Last edited by BigEffingHammer; 07-05-2012 at 10:43 PM.
  #12  
Old 07-06-2012, 08:19 AM
chris015's Avatar
BF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3,748
chris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura about
Default

pumps good for just 100k? man i got lucky then...my blazer has over 200k and i just did the pump last year. the other pump was original. sweet.

anyways, You could,but then you have to worry about fuel vapors etc in the cab,there shouldnt be any but thats always just another problem.

heres the cheapest pumps ive found thus far for ya. is yours a 2 or 4 door?


2 door 189.99:
Amazon.com: ACDelco MU1755 Fuel Tank and Pump Module Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: ACDelco MU1755 Fuel Tank and Pump Module Kit: Automotive

4 door 234.96 :
Amazon Amazon


not sure why a 2 and 4 door makes a difference,but it does apparently.

So there ya go.
 
  #13  
Old 07-06-2012, 09:20 AM
warthogdriver's Avatar
BF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bay City, Michigan
Posts: 2,785
warthogdriver is a jewel in the roughwarthogdriver is a jewel in the roughwarthogdriver is a jewel in the roughwarthogdriver is a jewel in the rough
Default

This is were a body lift becomes practical...those extra 2 inches give you so much room.
i will never own another ride without one on it.
I barely have to drop the tank at all.
As far as a hatch...it has been brought up around here before. I would think that if you used a larger peice of steel afterward with maybe an asphalt layer on it..think roofing ice shield...that would help seal it or maybe rubber. Then figure a way to fasten it. Problem is if you cut those gas lines....you have a way bigger problem on your hands.
 
  #14  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:05 PM
Captain Hook's Avatar
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Belleville, Michigan
Posts: 8,453
Captain Hook is a jewel in the roughCaptain Hook is a jewel in the roughCaptain Hook is a jewel in the rough
Default

There are members here on the forum that have cut an access hole. Problem is, the hole needs to be considerably larger than the module in order to twist, turn, and snake the old one out and the new one in without damaging the fuel level sender, float, and arm. To drop the tank is no big deal, probably less time than calculating where to cut the hole and actually doing it. With the S10 pick up, you can remove the box, just takes more people to do the job


2 door tank is aft axle, 4 door tank is midship inside the frame rail. Totally different tank configurations, that's why the modules are different.
 
  #15  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:28 PM
chris015's Avatar
BF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3,748
chris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura about
Default

^^^ gotcha. i was always wondering why they asked if it was 2 or 4 door. Shweet.
 
  #16  
Old 07-06-2012, 08:57 PM
BigEffingHammer's Avatar
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 144
BigEffingHammer is on a distinguished road
Default

Originally Posted by chris015
anyways, You could,but then you have to worry about fuel vapors etc in the cab,there shouldnt be any but thats always just another problem. Well, hopefully I'd be able to seal it off well enough.

4 door 234.96 :
Amazon.com: ACDelco MU1733 Fuel Tank and Pump Module Kit: Automotive
Mine is a 4 door, and I'm amazed at the price here. My one question is it doesn't look at all like the Delphi/AC Delco pumps that I've seen online at O'Reilly's or Carquest.

CARQUEST - Product Information: CQ/DELPHI ELECTRIC ASSEMBLIES

Delphi Automotive FG0052 - Fuel Pump Module Assembly | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I suppose it does look like the second one, but not the first.

I just want to make sure that it's 100% legitimate.
Originally Posted by warthogdriver
This is were a body lift becomes practical...those extra 2 inches give you so much room.
i will never own another ride without one on it.
I barely have to drop the tank at all.
As far as a hatch...it has been brought up around here before. I would think that if you used a larger peice of steel afterward with maybe an asphalt layer on it..think roofing ice shield...that would help seal it or maybe rubber. Then figure a way to fasten it. Problem is if you cut those gas lines....you have a way bigger problem on your hands.As long as I am very precise and careful when cutting, it should turn out alright. And hell, I may as well get a body lift while I'm doing this since my Blazer is a lawn ornament at the moment.
Originally Posted by Captain Hook
There are members here on the forum that have cut an access hole. Problem is, the hole needs to be considerably larger than the module in order to twist, turn, and snake the old one out and the new one in without damaging the fuel level sender, float, and arm. To drop the tank is no big deal, probably less time than calculating where to cut the hole and actually doing it. With the S10 pick up, you can remove the box, just takes more people to do the job How big of a hole are we talking? :O
Also, guys, for fuel filter... AC Delco only?
 
  #17  
Old 07-07-2012, 12:04 PM
chris015's Avatar
BF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3,748
chris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura about
Default

never had issues with aftermarket filters. fuel filter brand doesnt matter,they are all the same from what ive seen. Ours is screw on design,if they had those snap ring things etc,id go oem.
 
  #18  
Old 07-18-2012, 08:51 PM
BigEffingHammer's Avatar
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 144
BigEffingHammer is on a distinguished road
Default

Welp, got her runnin' again...
Bought the OE fuel pump from Amazon for $235, put her in, and she runs great. Still have to put in the new OE filter which I bought online for just over $15. (I've only driven in a circle for about 20 minutes because I missed driving her)

I cut a hole in my floor just behind the rear bench seat. I stole somebody's idea and put wet carpet between the sheet metal and the gas tank. Then I used a mixture of a sawzall, angle grinder, and a hammer and punch, to cut a 4 inch by 8 inch flap, then folded it up. I've yet to finish sealing it but I plan on bending it back down then putting a piece of sheet metal over it and tack welding it down. Then I'll blackjack around that larger piece of sheet metal to hopefully seal any road noise and fumes out of the cab. In theory, sounds like it'll work great. I didn't care about the carpet I ripped up because I am going to bedliner the back anyway.

I had to go under the Blazer to knock the "O" ring lose, then I just pulled the pump up through the floor after unhooking everything. Overall, sounded easier than dropping the tank especially considering I had about a quarter tank in there.

Couple things now relating to this pump:
Amazon.com: ACDelco MU1733 Fuel Tank and Pump Module Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: ACDelco MU1733 Fuel Tank and Pump Module Kit: Automotive

The strainer... Is there an internal strainer? Or do I have to purchase one as well? If it doesn't have an internal strainer, hopefully I didn't damage anything running her for 20 minutes without one...

The wiring... Stock 4 pin harness is in a square, new pump's 4 pins was in a line. Came with a new harness so instead of chopping any wires, I took apart the old pump, and attached the wires running from after the pump's harness to the new wiring harness. So I still just used the Blazer's stock harness, attached to the stock fuel pump harness, attached to the new harness.
Hopefully that's not too confusing, but does it sound like that's alright?

The locking "O" ring... I didn't replace it, it was a b*tch to get off and back on. I suppose I probably could of lubed it up or something for the sake of getting it back on, but since I did this alone and have never replaced a pump before, I was scared of getting anything in the fuel tank. So my question is, should I replace it at all?

Welp, that about does 'er.

Thanks so much for all the help guys.

-Keenan
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BouncingRadical
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
14
11-27-2015 12:30 AM
NCRD1331
Lighting & Electrical
8
05-22-2013 12:55 PM
tdbone1
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
2
12-24-2012 01:18 PM
kiwiblazer
The Lounge
2
01-11-2012 10:36 PM
smitty1244
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
1
01-07-2010 05:29 PM



Quick Reply: Fuel Pump Took a Dump? D:



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:19 AM.