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Fuel spider replacement issues/diagram?

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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 10:19 PM
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Default Fuel spider replacement issues/diagram?

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum and I have a 95 Blazer with a 4.3 Vortec (W vin). Earlier today I replaced the fuel spider, but when I tried to start it the damn cranked for about 10 seconds and then hydro locked... Anybody have a diagram or pictures of this thing so I know if maybe I put the lines in the wrong cylinders or something? Anybody had this experience before? I just did plugs and wires last week and they work great so I figure it has nothing to do with those.
The other thing I will say is I didn't hook up the sensor on the air intake hose right before the throttle body, might that have caused it? I figure an unplugged sensor at wouldn't hydrolock the motor...
Thanks for any help.
 
Old Sep 1, 2014 | 12:13 PM
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I have one of these.
Its been some time since I did one.
Have you opened the plenum and looked with just the key on or just the red prime wire jumped.
Not positive but I think there's a clip that holds the fuel lines in. If that's screwed up you might hydro lock it.
When you find the problem you will need an oil change.


The entire set up is plug and play.


The plug your speaking of goes to the intake air temp sensor and should no way lock your motor.


Did you do the nut kit, that's what they call the two interior fuel lines.
Why "Nut Kit" guess they were just nuts on designing it that way. Some of the first things to go!
JT.
 

Last edited by akaSPITTYBAYS; Sep 1, 2014 at 12:19 PM.
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 08:11 PM
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kind of a good news bad news... good news is I found that the fuel line hadn't gotten clipped in like I thought it had which was leading to my fuel gushing into the intake and locking up the engine...
I cleaned all the fuel out and fixed it but now it runs incredibly rich at start up, to the point where it takes about 10+ seconds to start if it's been sitting for more than 5 minutes. Anybody have any ideas why that might be?
 
Old Sep 2, 2014 | 08:46 PM
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As Spittybays mentioned.... pull the plenum off and turn the ignition to RUN. Don't start the engine. The fuel pump will run for about 2 seconds and shut off. Check for leaks while the pump is running. Here is what the "nut kit" looks like, and it's very common for them to leak:

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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 06:00 PM
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Hey I forgot to thank you guys for the replies... that's exactly what it was. I inspected those visually but I guess there was a hairline crack I couldn't see until the gas started running out. I also took the injector back and got a new one, not a reman because the passenger side looked like it was flooding as well. The truck runs a heck of a lot better than it did before! Also whoever decided that there should be a torx bit behind the engine where it's impossible to see/work should not be allowed to design anything ever again... took me and my sisters fiance 3 hours to bend the bracket out of the way and remove the fuel lines so we could get some vice grips on and slowly remove the old bolt... there was so much damn rust on the threads we had to use the vice grips for the whole length of the bolt.
 

Last edited by elite0259; Oct 16, 2014 at 06:02 PM.
Old Oct 16, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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If the passenger side is "fuel washed", it's usually the fuel pressure regulator, which is part of the injector assembly. Probably a good idea that you replaced it. Thanks for posting back!
 
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