New member here. I've been poking around here getting info and I need some help. I inherited a 1998 Blazer LT that was my fathers. Has 118000 on it and had a crate motor put in at about 93000. I am going to give this car to my daughter who lives across the country from me. I would like to make it bullet proof (if there is such a thing) her husband is not mechanical at all.


Here's what I am thinking so far
1. complete front end rebuild (yes the ball joints are bad) all moog parts
2. New fuel pump and filter
3.Brakes
4. Replace all the vac lines






What else would you do to it. I have a year to work on it and its only parts $$
What would you replace?


Fuel injectors New updated spider?
Any sensors you can think of?
would you put a new heater core in it HOW often do these go bad?


Thanks for your help I will check back later

 

I have a 2001 low mileage RWD Blazer that I just bought this summer. I did all the items noted below based upon my experience with the old family Safari van (180,000 miles without any of the drivetrain needed to be opened up, only sold due to rust) that had the same drivetrain:

COOLING SYSTEM
Each year the radiator get less efficient and will cause the engine and transmission to run hotter & hotter. Change the radiator with an ACDelco unit.You should go to the dealer and buy new o-ring fittings for the radiator to fit both the oil cooler and the transmission cooler lines.
Change the thermostat with a ACDelco unit. Flush the engine with a garden hose while the thermostat and radiator is out. Use Prestone green anti-freeze 50/50.It is compatible with all the materials.
Change all the radiator and heater hoses. Buy dealer hoses here, they fit well and buy the “constant tension clamp” to go with them.
Change the oil cooler lines at the same time. (AC Delco)
Check if the viscous fan clutch had been changed. Do that at the same time if it’s original.
I would not change the heater core if it is not leaking.

IGNITION
Change ALL the ignition parts with AC Delco (Cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires)Do NOT over-tighten the distributor cap screws.The distributor casting can be easily broken.When the screw stops turning, you stop.If you do break the distributor casting, there are some work arounds without replacing the distributor.

FLUIDS
Change oil & filter. AC PF52 filter and 4.6 quarts of Mobil-1 10W-30 high mileage oil.(Do not use 5W anything !) 5W-30 was recommended by the automaker only because they must specify the same oil that was used for the EPA mileage test.
Change transmission fluid & filter. Do not flush, just a pan drop. Do NOT use Dexron IV, use Dexron III. I use Mobil-1 multi-vehicle formula suitable for Dexron III.
Change rear end fluid & gasket. Mobil-1 75W-90 LS for RWD.

BRAKES
If you have rear disc brakes, change the rear calipers when doing the brakes. When the rear calipers get older they will drag when you change the pads.This will cause your rear end to over-heat, push brake fluid back into the master cylinder, poor mileage, and possibly unsafe braking.
I bought the RayoBestos fully loaded calipers with brackets and ceramic pads.

FRONT END
Yes, check it all. Idler arms are usually needed.Ball joints go bad if not greased every oil change.Grease it and grease it again!

DRIVETRAIN RWD
Change the U-joints, they go bad about 140,000 miles. Get the ones with grease fittings.

FUEL/AIR
Air filter, fuel filter, and PCV valve.
Check your history to see if the fuel pump was already changed. Mine went out at 80,000 miles.If you do change the fuel pump, change the emission gas tank pressure sensor at the same time.(Later the gas tank pressure sensor will want to throw a code)
I am just learning that my Blazer will need the Spider fuel injection assembly. It cranks a long time when hot. I just bought a Delphi assembly yesterday and the site says only 3 more are available. Maybe you should buy that first! I did even though I won't get to it until late October or so.

As a general note: I buy most of my parts from RockAuto.Use AC Delco as the default choice with this vehicle.It makes a huge difference.

 

While you got the gas tank down, check for rusty brake and fuel lines that run along the drivers side frame, just got done replacing mine. would have been eaiser with the tank out of the way. $100- $150 in parts.

 

I'd recommend looking at the shocks to see if they need replaced. If they are original then changing all four of them would make a world of difference in ride quality.

Is it a 4 door? If it has the spare tire underneath then I would double check to make sure it isn't dry rotted and that the cable to raise and lower it is in good working order in case she would ever need to use it.

 

Thanks for the info, Yes it is a 4dr 4x4 LT. My Dad keep almost every receipt for the work done. So with the help you give me I should be able to get this in pretty reliable shape.


Thanks and keep it coming

 

Was not on the list, but I would think that spark plugs, wire, rotor, cap, fuel filter are for sure going to be changed??
Would also check the distributor bushings for wear; aluminum shaft distributors are $50How about brakes?
As mentioned above, check/replace the radiator.

 

Ya tuneup was on my list. The distributor is a good suggestion, will have to look at that. I am going to do all 4 brakes and replace the calipers on the rear, they are original and the fronts are fairly new.


What about going from the Orange antifreeze to green as starblazing suggested. I swear I read some horror stories of this clogging up the system. I would hate to ruin a new radiator. Any suggestions on RADIATOR brand

 

My old Safari had called out for Dexcool and my two Audi calls out for special VW Euro red anti-freeze.


In the old days the green fluid was NOT compatible. You would have had problems due to the various materials used in the engine and the radiator.
Today it is formulated to be compatible. Even compatible if the anti-freeze is mixed.


I have run my 87 Audi 125,000 miles on the Prestone green anti-freeze 50/50 mixed and it runs cool and clean. This despite what the old school forum guys claim.


Dexcool is OK if you change the antifreeze regularly. I heard the formula has been improved. I would change Dexcool yearly. Green anti-freeze every one or two years.