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HELP!! truck runs like crap after LIM gasket change ses light flahes!

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  #21  
Old 08-10-2011, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Senshi09
swapping motors is a possible solution... BUT if the newly swapped motor causes the same problems, then you still won't know what happened. It is better to troubleshoot the motor you have now. LEARN about it, instead of blindly fixing things. im sorta in the same boat, changed my lim and head gaskets, now my light blinks and gives me the 300 code. Instead of swapping motors (the easy route, don't learn a damn thing) im trying to troubleshoot and figure it out WITHOUT blindly throwing money at things. Which also causes me to LEARN so that if it happens again, I know what to do.

Like I said, if you don't know whats causing this problem and swap motors, the same thing might happen to the next motor and then you're still screwed since you don't know what it is. I don't know your cash situation but i know swapping motors isn't cheap or easy. Do you REALLY plan on swapping motors everytime something goes wrong?

When you did your tune up, did you use delco parts or after market? Best thing to do is to listen to these guys on here. They know what they are talking about. If they didn't they wouldn't be trying to help you by telling you to do these little tricks like with the propane torch and such. Maybe like its been said, the atv didn't seal all the way and it's just a leak on your manifold.

EDIT-
Just because the motor has 180k on it, doesn't mean its ready for the garbage shoot just yet. If taken care of, it will be strong and run like a champ. You just got to have patience with it. You can't just jump right in and say "Oh this thing has x amount of miles, its garbage now." A Motor is not an old pair of shoes that you just throw away. When you got this truck, did the previous owner take care of it? If they did, did they provide the paperwork for anything done to it, such as receipts and such? If not did you witness the work being done to the vehicle? The point to that is anyone can say that they did a crap ton of work, but with no paperwork or receipts then its just words. Doesn't mean it has been done. If you bought it brand new, did YOU take care of it? Routine maintenance when it was due and things like that? One thing I was taught growing up: If you take care of something, it will last forever.
i understand what your saying about no0t learning about my motor, but the amount of money i will spend TRYING to fix whatever the problem is, i can get a motor with less miles that has more potenial of running longer. of course before i put the new motor in, i will replace head gaskets and other commonly worn parts.
also the motor in the truck now, i was told by a different mechanic that the compression was low in 2 of the cylinders, i think he said cylinders 2and 4, which ive had a 304 code. he thinks that i have a bad head gasket and when i told him that after it started running like crap i drove it home form work( i had no other ride so it was my only way home) which i drove it 70 miles home from work so he said it is very possible that i cracked the head, so i deffently dont want to replace head gasket and then find out its a crack or warped head.
ive only owned the truck for 7 months and its beeen problem after problem. so i dont think it was properly taken care of. and all ive done was try to "catch up" on maintaince.
 
  #22  
Old 08-11-2011, 12:02 AM
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when you replaced the master cylinder did the brakes start working again? If not its definately your Brake booster! I just had mine go bad had a small vacuum leak, MAF code hard brakes.... But I could hear my booster leaking air underneath the dash with my head by the brake pedal while I pushed the brakes with the car on...
 
  #23  
Old 08-11-2011, 06:23 PM
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no the brakes didnt start working yet. but i didnt bleed the brakes yet. the truck is a my moms and i have yet to get back over there
 
  #24  
Old 08-11-2011, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Charder
i understand what your saying about no0t learning about my motor, but the amount of money i will spend TRYING to fix whatever the problem is, i can get a motor with less miles that has more potenial of running longer. of course before i put the new motor in, i will replace head gaskets and other commonly worn parts.
also the motor in the truck now, i was told by a different mechanic that the compression was low in 2 of the cylinders, i think he said cylinders 2and 4, which ive had a 304 code. he thinks that i have a bad head gasket and when i told him that after it started running like crap i drove it home form work( i had no other ride so it was my only way home) which i drove it 70 miles home from work so he said it is very possible that i cracked the head, so i deffently dont want to replace head gasket and then find out its a crack or warped head.
ive only owned the truck for 7 months and its beeen problem after problem. so i dont think it was properly taken care of. and all ive done was try to "catch up" on maintaince.
ahh I understand. Yeah, im pretty much doing the same thing, trying to catch up since the previous owner didn't take care of mine either. Well, have you done your own compression test? I know it might not sound like the brightest ideas since a mechanic done told you, but in my opinion id rather do it myself and know first hand then trust a mechanic who i just met. Unless the mechanic is a family member or someone i've known my entire life, i don't trust what they say unless I do the test myself or witness them doing it. My buddy is a "professional" mechanic and done told me how things in a shop work.

as for the misfire, like you said you didn't give the atv time to fully cure. I think it takes 24-36 hours to fully cure on there. That could be causing the misfire, along with a clogged injector. Air rushing through the opening where the sealent didn't cure.

After you slapped everything back together did you run seafoam or any kind of injector cleaner through your fuel as well? I know you said you that you put it in your brake booster or vac lines but did you put it into your fuel?

When I did mine, I had to run 2 bottles of Sting Injector cleaner through it to clean it completely and a bottle of seafoam to make sure all the gunk was out. I know misfire on cylinder x is happening, but like its been said that can be caused by a clogged injector. The injector for that cylinder could just be full of gunk.

If nothing else, the injector sting is only 7 or 8 dollars, its not a huge dent in the wallet and it might just fix the whole shibang except the brakes.. the loss of power assist to them sounds like the brake booster to me.
 
  #25  
Old 08-12-2011, 09:52 AM
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i wish i could do a compression test my self but do not have the tools. but the mechanic wasnt at a shop is a freind of the family that has done work for us before and he came to my truck and did his tests.
how do i tell if the booster is bad?
 
  #26  
Old 08-12-2011, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Charder
i wish i could do a compression test my self but do not have the tools. but the mechanic wasnt at a shop is a freind of the family that has done work for us before and he came to my truck and did his tests.
how do i tell if the booster is bad?
friend of the family, done work before, trustable. That works then. As for the brake booster heres how to tell if it went out;

If the booster stops functioning, the main effect in an otherwise functioning brake system is that the pedal feels as though it is siezed up and cannot be moved at all with normal foot pressures. If very heavy pressure is exerted, some small braking effect may be noticed.......very, very hard pedal is usually the result.
 
  #27  
Old 08-12-2011, 04:33 PM
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OMG! if the brakes dont work after the master cylinder was replaced its gotta be the brake booster!!!!!!!!! Just check it out! Take it back to the place that did the master cylinder and get your money back!
 
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