So, I put a new radiator, belt, and alternator, as well as oil change last night. Once it was all done I filled the radiator with distilled water and a flush and am going to run it for a few hundred miles just to clear out any residual dex-cool that was left from my last backflush. This is really irrelevant to the issue at hand. So once everything was put back together, I fired her up and the battery light was coming on and off. Checked the belt to make sure it was not slipping, it is good and tight and spinning fine. Checked alternator wires and everything seems ok. This was not happening with my old alternator. So I took it to advanced and they ran a test on the battery, and the alternator and both passed with flying colors, but the battery light is still going on and off. Any ideas as to why this is? I have a feeling it is the alternator, bad out of the box but the test show otherwise. Cranking out 14.7+ on the test. Battery is Brand spanking new and tested good. What say you? Thanks!

 

I'm betting alt. Also. Tell them you want to swap it

 

Your certain all wire connections are tight?

 

I am certain, I am pretty sure its the alt. Even though it tests out fine, there must be something going on. I know it is supposed to send back 5v to the pcm, maybe it is not doing that?

 

Take the alternator back and have it tested. It sounds like it is bad.

 

He did already, they said it was good. But I differ

 

I'd say alt as well then if everything is tight and the belt isn't slipping. What was the reason for the new alt? Do you still have the old one?

 

Yes, I do believe it's a "Bad out of the box" alt. I think I will buy a Bosch anyway. I can install my old one, nothing was wrong with it, it just has some age on it and thought what the heck, So I will install it back on and wait for the Bosch to get here.

 

I have seen bad alternators test good before. My sister had a Nissan Sentra that would not charge only at high rpms, the stores only test at low RPM.