Ok thanks Captain I think i`m gonna try re-doing it just to make sure 100% when I put the intake manifold back on i was struggling to get it in place and smeared the fresh line of gasket goop all over plus one of the the gaskets had one of the little tabs that goes into a hole to hold in place broke off so its possible the gasket slipped out of place or didn`t have enough gasket goop after i smeared it all over, do the don`ts

 

Gotta be real careful setting the manifold down. It needs go straight down, no sliding it around to line up the bolt holes Might want to have an assistant when you set it.

 

Ok Captain I re did the intake gaskets and did them properly this time. There was no coolant in the lower intake so the cream that was in the upper plenum got sucked in through leak from the oval ring not being seated properly that is also fixed now I also pulled another spider out of a blazer at the wrecker just to try it see if it made a difference. It didn't it is all running the same as the Video. One thing I did wrong was when I put the the distributor back on my rotor was forward one notch from where I marked it, it would not start and was popping and stuff. So I reset it right and it ran exactly as it did in the video again but now I'm wondering if I set one notch out of place in the other direction this time if it might make it run better or will it just not run or start again?

So just to re cap I have now put in new
Distributor Cap
Rotor
Spark plugs
Spider injector
Ignition Coil
Intake gaskets (Upper and lower)
Fuel Filter
Coolant temperature sensor
Checked the Cat (It's Hollowed out)
Midas did a compression test on the cylinders (supposedly) and said it was fine. What's next I'm running out of ideas. Camshaft position sensor maybe? or other sensors? I'm pulling my hair out (what's left of it) Thanks for all your help.

 

I have some ideas on how to approach this diagnosis but it involves a compression gauge and the Torque Pro app for Android that I mentioned in post 32. Compression gauge can be borrowed from an auto parts store. You can borrow an android phone or tablet if you don't have one. Torque Pro is $5 and the obd2 adapter is $25. Let's start from scratch and not depend on any previous diagnoses as they have all been wrong.

 

Rockjock29BC, just need to know if you are interested in my help before I begin. No problem either way.

 

Yes I'm always interested in help just give me a little bit I wont be able to get to work on the truck for a few days. But thanks for the info I'll grab obd2 adapter asap thanks

 

How about a first name so I can stop typing rockjock29bc?

PM me when you have it. We can then discuss the use of the Torque app in this thread. Please do get the BAFX Bluetooth OBD2 adapter from Amazon.

Les

Here's a preview of a custom live display screen that I made for my Torque when diagnosing my "misfire".

 

Hi the names Shilo, and now I really screwed something up, So I mentioned the other day that I when I re-set the distributor it was out of place then i re-set it again and it ran exactly as it did in the video I had posted. while I never shut it off and re started it after it was running assuming it was all right. yesterday I tried to start it again but it was making loud clunking noises and rough and would not start. So I re-set everything to top dead center and tried to start it now engine will rotate but not start all the loud clunking noises stopped but it wont start any idea what i could have done.

 

Hi Shilo, doubt if you did anything that actually caused damage.

Could the distributor be so far out that the wrong plugs are firing. Does the rotor turn when the engine turns over? What marks did you line up when you "re-set" your distributor? Its also important to ensure you have engine turned to TDC#1 and not TDC#4. If you remove the spark plug and have someone tap the engine over with the starter a little bit at a time, you can feel (finger in spark plug hole) when #1 cylinder begins to get compression. The next time the mark on the balancer comes into alignment, that is TDC#1. With the correct mark on the balancer lined up, the rotor should point to the "6" in the distributor housing (give or take a few degrees).

 

Ok so what I did was Turn the crank wheel until I saw the yellow line on it match up with a notch behind the wheel I think there was a yellow line and a black line so I matched the yellow line up with the notch that sits around 2 o'clock the black line was then somewhere down around the bottom but I couldn't see it, Then I pulled the distributor out and aligned the two dots or notches at the bottom with a little line that was on the shaft and the rotor was pointing towards it as well when I dropped it back in it all lined up to just slightly past the 6 maybe a degree or 2 off at most. does that make sense?