Hey guys. How easy is it to replace the distributor cap, rotor and wires (spark plugs only have about 20k on them. Not planning on replacing them anytime soon as they don't seem to be needed.)? Is it something that is easy to mess up and damage the engine? I am trying to do my own repairs whenever possible. Also what brands of parts should I avoid? The truck starts on the first try every time (99.99% of the time that is). Is this really necessary to do on these trucks? As far as I know, most of the parts under the hood are original (except for the fluids, spark plugs, PCV valve/tube, hoses, belt, alternator, radiator, oil lines, intake gaskets, CAI and trans cooler that is). Fuel filter is new, fuel pump is scheduled for replacement sometime during the summer (bad gauge sending unit + 90,000 miles + not wanting a catastrophic failure of the pump = replacing it now to prevent future problems).

 

They're easy to replace. For the wires, be sure you use a plug wire puller. Why are you concerned about the fuel pump getting near failure? Has it given any indication? This is not a piece of cake to do.

 

Ok great. Is there any any specific way those parts have to be replaced so it doesn't mess up the firing order or anything like that?

Also, The fuel gauge is not working and I would like to fix it, but since I would have to drop the tank anyway, I would rather replace the whole unit rather than just replace the sending unit. Also since I hear about alot of fuel pump failures at around 100k and I am at 90k, I'd would rather not be stranded with a car with a failed fuel pump in another 10-20k and then have to call AAA and pay a shop to do it as well as other expenses and days of inconvenience.

 

fuel pump shouldn't just die in the middle of no where it would probably first be noticed not working around startup...i believe it is only an assist pump until the mechanical kicks in when the engine is started....rriddle correct me if im wrong please

 

mechanical fuel pump on a blazer? I haven't seen that since the old throttle body injection of the 80's.

 

The only fuel pump on the newer trucks is an electric pump in the tank.

 

It can work one day and not the next. I've had it happen. Truck drove fine all day Friday. Parked it until the next morning. Got in to leave and it would crank but not start. So I went and bought a fp gauge. Psi was down in the 50's. When I finally got it to start, pressure went down as rpm went up. Replaced the pump and all was well. Luckily I've done it more than a few times so it was relatively easy and only took like 2 hours. Maybe a little less.

 

Be sure the rotor is installed correctly and that the wires are routed exactly like on the original.

 

well my dad is wrong sorry guys...guess thats why i asked you guys to verify haha, im embarrassed

 

I just did my son's 1999 ZR2. Remove the front wheels. This makes the spark plugs a lot easyer. You will need a swivel to get the spark plug by the steering shaft. The distributer was stripped where the screws that hold the cap go. Went to Lowes for bigger and longer ones. Worked good. Dealer did not have longer or bigger ones. They are a joke.... too small, and are a star type. The rest was easy....good luck.